Dan,
Having taken mine apart I can give you the following help:- Not necessarily the correct way to take the bits apart but it worked for me using relatively few special tools.
The hub bearing.
Either put the studs which hold the rim on in a vice to hold the flange still, or put a long breaker bar / tyre lever through two stud so you can prevent the flange from turning.
Now remove the remains of that split pin.
Remove flange from vice.
Put two pieces of 4x4 on either side of the aluminium casting with the bearing pointing upwards.
Hopefully you have a Hot air gun - I would not use a blow torch unless you are going to replace the bearing, in which case it doesn't matter if you heat it = Get the bearing hot,
Now using a soft "copper headed" hammer you can tap the shaft down through the bearing and everything comes apart.
If you want to do it the correct way, you need to use a two or three legged puller to hook under the bearing and then wind the centre bolt down which will "pull" the bearing off.
Installation is similar in that you heat the bearing and then use a suitable sized piece of tubing that fits the centre ring of the bearing and long enough to clear the shaft in the middle. Tap the tubing to tap the bearing down on to the shaft.
As for the swivel pins, now you are talking possibly having to buy a couple of "special" tools just for this job! The top swivel pin need to be pulled out - it should have a 7 or 8mm threaded hole down the centre. Clean it right down to the bottom!! You need to get as much thread in there as possible for the next task, pulling it out!
Remove "cotter pin" the strange wedge and threaded stud that holds the top swivel pin inplace - these can be a real pain to remove and most likely will need to be replaced because you have either bent it or wrecked the thread!
You need a length of threaded bar - either 7 or 8mm depending on what you found as above.
Next you need a piece tubing with a bore suitable (preferably thick walled) for the swivel pin to fin inside. Long enough for the swivel pin to end up all the way inside i.e. about 10cm long
A thick washer
3 nuts that fit you threaded bar.
So you wind the threaded bar into the swivel pin, you slide the tube down the threaded bar making sure the swivel pin can be drawn up the middle. You put the thick washer on the threaded bar so it rests on top of the tube. You wind 1 nut down to the washer. You wind 2 nuts on to the threaded bar and lock them together. These will then provide a method of stopping the threaded bar from turning.
Now start to tighten the lowest nut down to wards the washer, holding the two top nuts to stop the bar from turning.
Like the "cotter pin" the swivel pins can be pigs to remove,
particularly if they haven't be changed in a long a time as they develop a "lip" which catches as you attempt to remove them. Applying heat from a hot air gun to the casting around the top swivel pin will help.
Your next "special tool" is to buy a suitable sized open end / ring spanner for the bottom swivel pin nut - you then have to attack it with either an angle grinder or a bench grind and take off just enough metal to allow you to fit it between the universal joint and the top of the thread of the bottom swivel pin.
Remove the split pin.
Remove the two nuts and bolts which hold the bottom cap in place - BE CAREFUL NOT to lose the ball bearing and the half cup and shim which are in there!
Now there are two flats on the bottom of the lower swivel pin which will be exposed when you take off the bottom cap.
So an open ended spanner on the two flats, your "special" altered ring spanner on the nut on the top and you can undo the nut - probably one flange at a time, but atleast you can undo it....
Section two of this marathon - putting it back together!
I'll leave that till you get to that point
John
Do not mix up the spacer shims 
