Pinzgauer Rescue

[David Dunn]

Izzs think I sees a customer for new glass.

Congrats on the new truck.

[rmel]

Ha!! Funny. I was going to call you soon.

I do know that the windscreen needs to be replaced.
Side windows too for tinted. Not to mention the drivers
side bottom door half is rusted through due to trapped rain.
I'll be replacing that rather than playing restoration body
shop man -- although it does look repairable a project for
the future. New rubbers and window tracks needed too.

I do have a spare windscreen I picked up from you a couple of
years ago at Mogfest. I'm thinking use that one, and get another
spare from you next time I'm in SoCal.

I am also way behind accessing all the needs as it's been raining
up here around the clock. Just broke mid-morning, rain again Sunday.
Ain't complaining, badly needed.

With Mozo in the garage this rig presently is deemed a second class
citizen so it's outdoors work for now. But, like a sneaky dog I do
see some inching towards the 2'nd bay of the garage though -- need
to negotiate that slot with the wife, I already kicked my BMW out
for Mozo. Wish I had 4 bays. At least I got the header raised to get
these guys in.

I'll be pining you soon on glass.

[rmel]

Day 1, no rain, a little progress. Bad ignition switch now replaced with a EI replacement switch.
I like this switch! Two positions. First position enables the starter motor only -- so you can use
this position to use the starter motor to crawl W/O starting the motor. Second position all
circuits go.

Starts up but runs like crap, not too surprised. Very high idle, vacuum leak most likely. Coughs
and spites while running, misfiring, but could also be a very lean cylinder. Tomorrow weather
permitting I'll start digging into the Engine.

Tool and Battery box had one heck of an impressive mouse hotel in each.

So far other than the bottom door half on the Drivers side, I have not found any significant rust.
Drivers seat is a complete POS, a pair of Smart Car Fortwo seats are on the way

Canvas is all crap.

All fluids need to be replaced, leaky Trainie, rear main seal, and front diff leaks. I knew all
that

Plan is to get this to decent running conditions then I'll post the projects. I have a "vision" more
or less.

Surprise find of 6 original Tire chains in a canvas bag -- saturated with mouse pee

[geckoadventure]

Hey I resemble that rescue remark LOL.

GECKOADVENTURE

[rmel]

Well it's running OK now. Amazed it ran at all. Brake boost line broken, big Vacc leak.
Throttle plate on one card separated from the body, another vacc leak, accel jets plugged.
Completely out of balance carbs and linkage holding one throttle plate open. Just got
the carb balancing airflow meter today.

Good news is compression checked out very good, and a boroscope peek into the cylinders
looks very good.

Then I got to hatting the look of some very ratty air tunnel insulation and could not
help myself to get the heat gun and remove all that crap. That was more work than
expected. Good I did as there were several surface rust spots. All cleaned up, started
sealing, painting and will add some MLV as a heat and noise barrier. I'm spending all
my time on stuff you can't see

Slow going though.

[rmel]

Several (but not all) Electrical and Ignition upgrades complete. My overall goal is
the KISS principle rather than going over the top as I had on the 710.

This is pretty much a middle of the road approach if your looking for ideas on comm's,
navigation, aux outlets, and ignition.

First up a modest 12A 24v-12V converter for radio and Aux 12V power. Radios are
all low power consumption and Aux is primarily for charging phones etc. 3 fused
circuits and converter all fits snug in the foot well area to the left of the windshield
washer reservoir -- lots of scrapped knuckles to install though.

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Comm's: Bteck 25x2 covers 2M, 70cm, GMRS and FRS. Compact, 25W max. supports
repeaters and DTMF tones, programmable via USB cable. Fits nice on the left side of
dash for easy access. Note Can't recommend keying up on GMRS band even with a
license, this radio is not FCC compliant for that band. Next up CB; Cobra 75WXST, all
electronics in the Mic with the last power stage in a small box with an Aux speaker output.
Mic mounted on Right side of dash, small box mounted on top of wind tunnel -- knuckle
scrapper install.

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Yes, also upgraded the Speedo and added a Tach. Note the tach is 52mm, dash hole is 60mm.
VDO makes an adapter you can get from Summit racing. You will also need a backing plate or the
gauge mounting "nut" (white plastic collar) will go right through the hole 12V power for these
gauges is via the PinzSSI another upgrade -- well worth doing. Note the PinzSSI DCDC converter
has two power outputs, one is ON by default, the other is switched. You want to use switched
power for the gauges (gray wire). Catch that LED in the dash , I connected that to the warning
contact on the fuel sender for a more accurate indication of the last 5 gallons. Connect the anode (+)
terminal of the LED to a 2.4K to 3K ohn resistor and the resistor to the +24V on the Fuel gauge.

Navigation is a simple approach, I use GaiaGPS running on a iPad mounted on a adjustable tablet mount.
I picked a Tachform mount, one of the best mounts I have found, Aluminum arms and a very positive
locking mechanism. Expensive but not a plastic POS.

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Now onto some body work and painting. If it stops raining up here long enough.

[whitesik]

Thanks Ron! Lots of good ideas here.

[rmel]

First phase of restoration done.

Just completed a face lift. Could not source a Drivers door replacement soon enough, ended
up playing tin knocker. Cut rust out, fabricate replacement panel via the British tin knocker
way -- angle iron hammer and planising. Came out far better than I expected.

I rattle canned, used the divide and concur method, masking off a section at a time. First
use of SAV's newly released Swiss Green in a can. The paint is good the nozzle is crap. Sprays
as a narrow cone rather than a vertical (or horizontal) fan. It's not very forgiving, if you over
spray it runs, and it's really hard to control with this nozzle, came out acceptable nonetheless
but would not pass as a Ferrari paint job Next section I do I will replace this nozzle
with a fan type and see how that comes out.

Here's a Before and After shot for now.

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Nuf work for now, time to get some runs in.

[rmel]

Five steps forward one step back

Better this happened on my property than on the trail.

After installing newly refurbished carb's from the Goatwerks factory,
cylinder #3 decided to give up the ghost and beltch tons of grey smoke
and oil out of the exhaust, leaking right out of the flex exhaust coupler.

Well the bright side is that I did have the 2.7L conversion planned but
I was hoping this to be a bit further down the road. For sure better this
happened close to my garage than out at 7,000' up in the Sierra's. Even
with the new carb's and PinzSSI I felt there was power lacking on this motor,
just don't feel right, though compression was on the low side.

Well, all torn down, and surfaces cleaned. I have a set of re-build spare
heads ready to go. Jugs need boring and piston fitting. May as well get the
Headers ceramic coated and get a AFR and Pyrometer bung welded in.

Don't know what's worse on these top end jobs: The prep work cleaning
before re-assembly or the re-assembly. Waiting for parts sucks too.

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[Pinz aus]

Enjoying the read of your latest project.
I’m wondering if you can elaborate a little on a couple of things.

Your new VDO speedo, I assume it’s electric and I’m interested to know about where your picking up signal/reading setup. My original speedo drive is stripped internally (in the diff) and it’s something that I haven’t addressed yet. I have been very slack about posting any progress on my 712 but I have been slowly chipping away and have just carried out many upgrades in the electrical system including Pinz SSI.

My second question is regarding your comment about a port for a pyrometer. I think I read a comment from you somewhere else just recently about placing it in the third cylinder port?
I have fitted an oil pressure gauge, tachometer and run wires for an oil temp gauge but from what I can gather this may be a wasted exercise and might be better redirected to a pyro?

Cheers Geoff

[rmel]

D'day Geoff.

First, wrt to the Speedo, you can get a compete kit from SAV https://swissarmyvehicles.com/pinzgauer ... nic-kmhmph,
which will included the proper sending unit and the speedo. It is a Hall effect device so wire cable replaces the old mechanical cable inc.
the drive gear. If your stripped gear is at the end diff end of the cable, this new cable might fix your problem. If your damage
goes deeper you can also get replacement parts from SAV. For that matter you can probably fix your current speedo if it's the
end point of the cable at the front diff that's the problem.

Temp monitoring is a good thing, Go with your Oil temp and pressure, it's not redundant with Exhaust temp., tells you lot about what's
going on in your oil sump, oil pump, and pressure valve.

A Pyrometer gives you a good general sense of the load you are putting on your engine, for example, going up a very steep grade for a
long period of time with a considerable load on the motor you might see a reading of 1450 F to 1500 F which is pretty hot -- time to
back off the throttle. Or some other condition that makes you run too hot. If your going to add just one Pyrometer, #3 runs the hottest
of the 4 and is notorious for being the first to go.

[rmel]

Expecting the New bored jugs and custom Pistons in a couple of weeks.

In the meantime, installed a newly fabricated Tank Guard from Fat Fabrication.
Didn't think of looking down the throat of the Gas tank up until this addition, but
low and behold Red Death was setting in with a fair amount of the liner blistering
and some at the bottom of the tank. Removed, then hauled off to a local shop for
re-lining. Good I stumbled on that. Fresh paint on the Tank and guard Powder coated.
The Guard is a custom design which includes a Jerry can holder and a small
compartment below for a LiFePO4 battery, might squeeze a compressor in there too.

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[rmel]

Jugs and Pistons received. All back together, started right up, runs smooth.
In the "trial" phase, doing short HWY runs checking for leaks and any issues.

I hand lapped each Cylinder to it's corresponding head prior to getting them
bored for the new Pistons.

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#4 set in place.

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Cylinders in position, Intake manifolds and Exhaust in position and aligned
ready for Torque down.

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Done. Some tweaks were necessary to get the Airduct to sit proper on the Carbs

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Now I have a shot to get this rig on the Trails.

[VinceAtReal4x4s]

It's Pinz porn! That battery compartment is rather cool. How big is it in there?

So when are you tackling the issues of those awful tires?

[rmel]

The Battery box is about 12" x 12" x 6.7". Large enough to fit a 60Ahr LiFePO4 battery in
there with spare room for a couple of small parts box's. the next question will be, OK
so what's the Battery used for, that's the second PIX below

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The distribution panel below (behind drivers seat) includes a RedArc power converter
which takes as input 24V Alt and/or Solar -- it automatically decides if it needs power
from the Alt or the panels are outputting.

There is 12V "hot" (always on), and 12V switched, and limited 24V e.g. for the PinzSSI.

Two beefy PowerPole connectors at 40A each, typically for Air Compressor or high
power Radios. A standard Cigarette lighter outlet at 15A, Fridge power. I also have a
O2 Sensor controller, and yes I welded a bung on the header along with a Pyrometer
bung -- Ceramic coated of course.

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Tires? Ya, they gotta go. First they are over 10 years old. Now that the engine work
is pretty much behind me I plan on a set of Transit wheels and 33". That'al improve
HWY by at least 3% over these crappy tires.