THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

My brother and I just purchased a 71 710M here in Mesquite. Appears to be all original except soft top window replacement. Runs very strong, no clatter, might have been a backfire on starting once or twice. After driving it up and down the street and then restarting in 30 minutes or an hour, didn't want to start right up. Might have a hot restart problem, or we just don't know yet whether we should feather the throttle a little on restart.

Great forum, read lots in the past week. We'll keep the well worn and checked Maloya tires on the OEM rims for shows and will be putting on new SAV replacement wheels and BFG MT KM2 265/75R16s soon.

Your re-starting problem could be a number of things. I'd start by asking the seller
what the nuances were that he dealt with even sub-conscientiously. I sure have a
few but they are now muscle memory

I'll post in the appropriate technical section after I register it Monday and drive it more. I assume it would be the Engine section. When this has happened on our early Scouts, Broncos and Jeeps it often was a solenoid problem, but this is a strong crank but no gas I think. The guy we bought it from had it for 4 years and only put 100 miles on it. He was very good with explaining all the features, but didn't drive it much. We also have very dim tailights/brakelights and turn signals don't work. I've seen the electrical box thread and will try cleaning up those connections. We're loving it, but know from our other classics that it takes some effort to make them right and bad grounding is a common culprit.

Basically sitting for 4 years and still in decent running condition is pretty good.
These trucks run best when they are used on a fairly regular basis.

Sounds like your first step would be a "heads to toe" general maintenance, unless the prior owner
can walk you through all the things that were done recently.

Do you have the manuals for the truck? There are three; General maintenance and operating,
Repair, and Parts -- these are pretty essential. You can get a set from Expedition Imports, link above.

Some chapters for parts reference, and a wiring schematic are under the section "TECH sections".

IMHO I'd make sure all the vital fluids are fresh and high quality; Engine Oil, Trani, X-case, Wheel drives,
hydraulics. DO NOT use synthetic in the Engine or wheel drives. Good discussion on products to use
on the Forum. I use Lucas gear oil, and Aircraft grade Engine oil, has better heat transfer properties for air
cooled engines. Get yourself a large bag of copper 22mmx27mm washers (DIN 7603). I bought a bag of
100 a couple of years ago and thought they would last forever -- HA!

There's a long list of stuff to check and maintain, breaks, clutch, lockers, etc etc etc. There's some more
subtle items such as the torque on the Wheel drive pinch bolts -- all lessons learned the hard way

Electrical system is pretty darn simple, but there are those oxidized contacts, crimps, and some things just
fail, just relentless poking and prodding gets these sorted out fairly quickly -- a decent DVM from Harbor Freight
is your best friend.

On the starting problem, how long has that gas been sitting in the system? Could be a number of things but
run the engine into a know condition w.r.t. clean gas, and run some high quality detergent for a bit. it's a long
shot but maybe it will resolve itself. If not then there's a number of things you can dig into deeper.

One enhancement that many make is to replace the ignition system with a modern day electronic ignition.
The "pinzinator" on this forum sells these, "pinzSSI.com", thoses that have converted always have a positive
outcome. He PM'd me inadvertently but meant for you so here you go No I don't get a kick back
I have EFI

cheers,

ron

not sure your setup has petronix /compufire hall effect or points for timing..

seems you have Spark askew in the FAS triad ( Fuel/Air/Spark) ..contributes to the backfire/starting issues

Do check for water vapor inside the distributor cap when it fails to start - sublimates from water in oil sump - clean with dry absorbent paper & spray WD40

the distributor cap might also have arcing and copper electrodes have attained copper sulphate deposit - dremel wire-wheel to rescue

replacement distributor caps are aplenty on rockauto

I used to have similar issues in winter/snow or moisture laden Tennessee climate - oil in sump would accumulate the water when sucking the hot air

In summer you should be just fine in mesquite . distributor less pinz SSI coil pack with optical pickup will fix the issue

The bottom on the fences verify recent rain in your area..PinzSSI came knocking to Ron...

Thanks everyone for the input. Learning more about what I've got every day.

The previous Owner did install the PinzSSI system, so I'm good on that.

Well, we've had the Pinz for 3 weeks now. Haven't driven it since to the DMV to register it. Been working hard on getting everything together to put new tires on it and get a CB, Ham Radio and DC outlet for GPS and phone charging. Also picked up a few miscellaneous things that needed replacement. I've been busy with SAV and the electrical parts stores lately.

Here's a picture of the new BFG MT KM2 265/75R16's on SAV replacement wheels waiting to go on. I ordered some paint markers to black out the white letters on the inside sidewall, but they haven't come in yet.
I pretty much have everything I need to get power from the radio plug to a new 24V-12V converter, then fuse box, then the users. The open workspace is great!

Looking good!
I also have a Victron 24-12v converter - they are nice

TechMOGogy wrote:Looking good!
I also have a Victron 24-12v converter - they are nice

I picked it from a recommendation on this forum!

Is that a new doghouse (engine cover) from SAV. Looks nice and clean!

stiffler4444 wrote:Is that a new doghouse (engine cover) from SAV. Looks nice and clean!

No, it was on the vehicle. It does look better than a lot of pictures I've seen. It does have some cracks on the edge of the top piece that slips in. It looks like it's been painted some time along the way. I have removed it and it's sturdy. I think it's original.

How did you get your new wheels balanced? Unfortunately the Pinz wheels are true by Lug not Hub.
All tire shops balance from the hub assuming that when you mount from the lugs balance is maintained.
For proper balance you need an adapter that mounts to the wheel and gives a true hub reference -- you
may be lucky that the hub is spot on with the lugs, depending upon the vintage of the wheels. If you
have any vibration at speed on the HWY this may be why.

The solution for this is Tire beads rather than rim weights http://www.innovativebalancing.com/

rmel wrote:How did you get your new wheels balanced? Unfortunately the Pinz wheels are true by Lug not Hub.
All tire shops balance from the hub assuming that when you mount from the lugs balance is maintained.
For proper balance you need an adapter that mounts to the wheel and gives a true hub reference -- you
may be lucky that the hub is spot on with the lugs, depending upon the vintage of the wheels. If you
have any vibration at speed on the HWY this may be why.

The solution for this is Tire beads rather than rim weights http://www.innovativebalancing.com/

Yes, I've read those threads. I just had them balanced the normal way since I didn't see anywhere to buy the adapter. The wheels are new ones from SAV. They did put a lot of weights on them (and on the outside!).

We'll see how it goes. If it's a problem we can use the beads like lots of you are doing. When you use the beads, do you take the wheel weights off first?

Yup, remove the weights the beads are all that's required.

I used this (or something like it(: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Crosman-Elit ... o/45848935. I did seven tires for my 712, over six ounces per tire. I just divided them up with a small scale and put each group in a ziplock bag and told the tire shop to add a bag to each tire. I've never had a tire off to check on them but after 4 years I still don't have any wheel vibrations. The "official" beads might be "better", but for less than $4 per tire I can't complain. Just don't get the biodegradable beads, and try to get the heaviest weight (0.25 grams or heavier).