THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I've been putting this off for a while and finally got around to it. When I got my Pinz it had a good size gap at the front doors, which caused the rear latches to become questionable.

Here's what the gap looked like.


So I made a pair of brackets for the front and ancored them at the strongest pulling points.


Then a pair of anchors for the rear, these went into the seat mount points. I first had these straight, but later changed them to angle up for clearance of the chains and to reduce the stress to the rather small M6 bolts.


I used chains to secure the rigging.


A 4x4 across the rear cab wall to distribute the forces and protect the metal from deformation.


Two come-a-longs were used at the same time, paying careful attention that they were applying even pressure. If they are not pulled together the center box structure can get distorted.

I pulled the frame past the correct angle and held the part in place. Using a large block of wood and a sledge hammer, I applied some pressure at some key points (around the air dam center column) to nudge the rest of the frame into place.

It worked out very well, giving a even gap at the leading edge and closing the gap at the latch. I will post the results when I mount the doors later.

Miles

Miles,

You are a master of improv!

How long does it take to detach a 712 body from the driveline? I need to do a variety of projects to each that would be easier if they were apart.

-Evan

I can't remember exactly, but it did take some time.

Here is the procedure:

1. Detatch the steering arm.
2. Detatch the lateral body support and steering dampner.
3. Detatch all the wiring between the body and motor.
4. Detatch all hydraulic lines. (Lockers, Clutch and Brakes) @ disconnect hoses in front of motor, also front brake hose attatched to the body under driver seat area.
5. Detatch the emergency cable. @ emergency brake handle
6. Detatch the transmition shifter linkage. @ shifter
7. Detatch the Hi-Low gear box shifter linkage. @ gear box
8. Detatch the speedometer cable. @ chassis
9. Remove all shock absorbers and limiting straps.
10. Detatch the rubber air filter gasket.
11. Detatch the fuel line. @ fuel filter
12. Remove the chassis bolts. 2 @ front bumper, 2 @ front frame support, 4 @ rear spring mount frame and 1 @ tail cone

I think thats it, but I may have forgotten something. Be careful and double check everything before you lift the body. Good luck.

Miles

Miles,

Thanks for the tips! The Buddha encourages the practice of non-attachment, so perhaps I can consider disassembling the 712 to be a religious experience.

-Evan

Forgot, you have to.....

13. Detatch all the hydraulic locker indicator switch leads. @ switches x4

Miles

Here's a picture of the results:



I was able to remove all the shims at the latches.

Miles

Oodles of congrats. on the magnificent job you are doing. Impressive indeed.

Just noticed you have improved the intrument panel backing plate. May I ask how you did it and what with ? Silver paint ? I was thinking of just buffing up the aluminium plate until Mr Magnet said it was steel !

The instrument panel is just about the last bit of drab olive left in my cab. The rest is now black gloss to match the exterior. Been dithering about the panel.

Wow that looks great! My paint is really flaking off in places now. I'm going to have to start stripping and painting.

Todd,

I'm going to have to start stripping and painting

you do mean your truck right?

OOooooooh....Bob...that is a visualization I did NOT need.

I hope for the sake of all things proper, moral and "G" rated he paints with his clothes on.

Unless, of course, "Todd" is actually short for "Toddette," in which case the idea of her painting in the nude is different; and all of the morals and visualizations change for the better.

Miles: I, and my son, both missed the clutch line. The flex part tore quite cleanly, sparing the rest of the hardware. I told him that given the possible expense of the various other screw-ups possible on a project like this, including injuries, I am very happy to only have to buy a new clutch line.

It is very tough to go from being quite self-sufficent to being dependent on a 14 year old son and his 18 year-old friend who constatantly wonders, "righty-tighty, lefty loosey" as he tries to keep his pony tail out of the oil puddle and remove bolts without damaging himself or the parts involved. Being a DANV (Disabled American Non-Veteran) is very challenging. I sometimes think about my struggles coupled with what our combat veterans have been through, and I wish our society would do more to care for them after they have served there time.

Well, enough for now...Miles, you thread has been a total inspiration!

-Evan

cronapress....Yes that is silver paint; however I don't know what kind, as it was already painted by the previous owner. I will be cutting a custom panel when I have the time.

EvanH....You did pretty good just missing one hose. I was fortunate (or not) that I removed all the parts inside the body, including electrical wiring, and had better access to see where everything else was. The hydraulic lines were the parts that I was really careful with, not only do the treads like to cross thread but the hydraulic fittings tend to round off.

A tip for anyone remounting the body, get or make the proper front spring compressor. Trying to align the body, while compressing the springs via other means, is a real nightmare.

I'm working on a spring compressor design and hope to have it built in the near future. I'll post a thread when it's done.

Miles

Heed wrote:Todd,

I'm going to have to start stripping and painting

you do mean your truck right?

Well in this economy, you gotta do what you gotta do. Giggity.

Keep those pictures to yourself please.