THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Hint, the one with the plastic clip cost under £3 to make

Photos of it in use please?

Ed

Very resourceful , Now you just need to mark (in green)the "float window", measure from bottom of bracket (lowest level point) to maximum level(bottom of hose clip).
This way as long as fuel is "in the green window" the float is set correctly.
One note, when using this tool the choke will not operate because the starter jet is not in place.
Good job on the thrifty solution

edzz wrote:Photos of it in use please?

Ed

Because you don't know or because you don't trust that mine will work?

I'll try to take a picture of them both tomorrow. In the meantime, page 70 of the repair manual (which I believe you have!) shows it in use - it's a very simple device - just a plastic tube so you can see how high the level is - it should reach to the bottom of the bracket.

Jim - thanks for the tip - the only tolerance figures I can find are ±1mm - that's a small line to mark! The hose clip on the original didn't seem too securely placed - I'd be wary of using this as a level.


Perhaps you can answer me a question. My float levels are too high, so I need to put some gaskets under the needle. Once the engine is warm, I can take off the tops of the carbs (with engine stopped!) but do I need to keep re-cranking to check the new level? Also, what do these gaskets look like and how thick are they?

edzz wrote:Photos of it in use please?

Ed

As promised (this is my one not the original). Photo taken from passenger side on front carb.

Thanks thats what I wanted to see.

Ed

Very nice! This is what i use to check my float levels, but I have to remove the top to check. I'd like to get one of the originals eventually.


http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-sta ... _adv=15000

audiocontr wrote:Very nice! This is what i use to check my float levels, but I have to remove the top to check. I'd like to get one of the originals eventually.

Why pay for an original when they're so cheap & easy to make?

I know this is an older post, but for us newbies who are thinking of tackling the carbs, the float tool is a necessary bit. I may make my own, thanks to Spandit, but I found a bunch of different options used by Porsche 356 owners which also used the Zenith. I can only assume (yes, I know what they say) that Zenith used the same threads in their 36mm NDIX carbs, and these options are MUCH cheaper than the factory tool....and yes, more than a homemade one.

Does anyone know if these, or tools like them would work?



http://www.precisionmatters.biz/zenith- ... -gauge.php


$39.99 for two...
http://www.automotion.com/1968+porsche+ ... rsche.html

I reckon they'd work fine - good find! Still cheaper to make your own, though

The trick is sourcing the parts.

I'm happy to toss the $40 for that set if they work... Guinea pig, erm, i mean Berger... you go first.

audiocontr wrote:The trick is sourcing the parts.

I'm happy to toss the $40 for that set if they work... Guinea pig, erm, i mean Berger... you go first.

The only issue I see with the pair is that they don't look like they sit far enough out from the carb body, when compared to the older tool image.

Found another....but the question is will the weber type fit the zenith...it might, as the weber and zenith tools are listed together generally on the Porsche's.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Webe ... P226A.html

Why pay for an original when they're so cheap & easy to make?

Nobody's answered that one yet.

The trick is sourcing the parts.

That second one in Robin's photo above is simply a brake bleeder valve that fits the threads in the carb. That's what I got, and it set me back maybe a buck. A few cents more for a little chuck of fuel-resistant hose, and a scrap piece of metal to hold it all together on the carb.

By all means Berger, if you find a cheap ready-made alternative please let folks know. There are undoubtedly plenty of people who would rather buy something manufactured. But probably the reason you're the first guy who seems to have done much searching is because it's so easy to just make one at home.

...which brings you back around to Robin's question... :idea:

If you can get the bleeder nipple (which is a common size) they are dead easy and quick to make - it's only a simple level gauge, doesn't need to be anything fancy. It's a shame the carbs don't have an external adjustment screw for the float valve as having to take the top off to shim it is a pain