THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

You are correct, the disc is not always coordinated with the position of the rotating assembly like a distributor would be. It is put on the shaft at random, and can be adjusted to your preferance before setting the timing.
The rotary switch is no longer offered, instead a toggle switch is used that utilizes 2 advance curves instead of 4. If you would like the new version, PM your address to me and I will send you the new switch (complete) with instructions. No charge.

I just finished installation this morning and I gotta say it smells and sounds exactly the same as it did before. Actually there is one notable difference: no more occasional "miss" at speed. I think that was the pertronix causing the skip. I could see it very clearly with a timing light. I still have some carburetor tuning to do, as I have a lot of backfires when going downhill. Definitely pleased with its performance up hills! Very solid RPM; seems to hold speed nicely!

The voltage difference on the batteries is absolutely a no-go with the voltage regulator I have (aftermarket). It might be okay with the factory regulator, but you should check voltages for yourself. My top battery is hitting 15.6v, the bottom is 13.2 After my regulator drops to float they are 13.9 and 13.1, which is probably more like what the Factory regulator gives for everyone else(?). 13.9 is probably okay for most batteries, but the fact is that the lower battery will take a VERY long time (many days?) to charge at that voltage and the top battery is going to charge much faster and possibly overcharge if you are driving for many hours.

Overall I am satisfied, but I need to get a 12v supply or maybe somehow "load" the top battery with an equal current.


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eToothpaste wrote: I still have some carburetor tuning to do, as I have a lot of backfires when going downhill.

Look for exhaust leaks.

eToothpaste wrote:Overall I am satisfied, but I need to get a 12v supply or maybe somehow "load" the top battery with an equal current.

For 12v power sources google "24v to 12v converter" if it were me I'd use one converter dedicated to the ignition and if you wish to run other 12v items like gps, radio, etc have a second converter.

check here..

http://www.24voltproducts.com

Astrodyne has made some decent ones that I've use, such as their SD-150B-12 and higher powers. Although I've not had a failure with this brand, I have had several failures with Samlex so it is always a good idea to have two if used for SSI or EFI; you always have a backup on hand if needed.

eToothpaste wrote:The voltage difference on the batteries is absolutely a no-go with the voltage regulator I have (aftermarket)... 13.9 is probably okay for most batteries, but the fact is that the lower battery will take a VERY long time (many days?) to charge at that voltage and the top battery is going to charge much faster and possibly overcharge if you are driving for many hours.

Very interesting. I had to replace my Optimas this spring and maybe this is the source?

There are many things that can kill a battery. Heat is one thing, and the nearby exhaust can help kill a battery. My regulator monitors battery temp and has shut down a few times due to battery temps being too high on long trips in the summer.

Check the battery voltages while running above idle, though.

Between 13.2 and 14.2 is probably okay if you keep up on regular battery maintenance.

The voltage difference can be caused by the batteries getting old and degrading - the better battery tends to become more undercharged (lower voltage) and the weaker one tends to get overcharged (higher voltage). It isn't necessarily caused by the connection of a 12vdc load - although that doesn't help... The voltage imbalance is a sign of end-of-life.

I have a 24vdc charger installed which charges each 12v half independently when I park the vehicle and plug in. It ensures that the two batteries start out fully charged and seems to reduce the issue of imbalance - although I don't have any 12vdc loads connected. I don't always plug in the truck between drives - but it helps even if its only done once a week. I think its worth the cost to install one.

eToothpaste wrote:My regulator monitors battery temp and has shut down a few times due to battery temps being too high on long trips in the summer.

What brand/model of regulator are you using?

Haf-e wrote: What brand/model of regulator are you using?

I have the Mark Grasser 24v regulator.