THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Hello All!

I wanted to introduce myself before I start flooding yall with questions.

I grew up outside of Detroit, always tinkering on cars, electronics and houses. In 2007, I finished my degree in construction management and moved down to Greenville, SC. I took a job with a custom high end home builder and was able to further educate myself in most divisions of construction. Last year, I transitioned into facilities maintenance with a small but growing general contracting firm. I now manage about 18 facilities and oversee smaller projects. I enjoy the outdoors, design and architecture as well as comedy and improv.

Restoring a classic car has been a life long dream of mine, with a great job, an understanding wife and no kids yet, I took the first step in making that dream a reality. I recently took delivery of a 1974 710m. It runs and drives ok, the body and interior will require quite bit of work.

Yesterday I started removing everything from the cab to get a better understanding of the scope of work. I ran into a few surprises and now have several questions...

The truck has the original ventilation duct work, I know that the original brake pads have asbestos, but I'm unclear on whether or not any of the duct work is wrapped with an asbestos insulation. Can anyone confirm asbestos?

The carbs and ignition coil appear to have been replaced. Can anyone confirm this and provide more details on the parts?(I'm working from my phone and believe I have uploaded the images correctly)

Last question for now - i have a very difficult time Finding second gear when shifting, is this common and what can I do to help?

Thanks in advance. I look forward to being part of your community.

Alex

Welcome! First gear is for steep inclines only, or for going very slow. You can easily start rolling in second gear. No asbestos in the wind tunnel. What you have there is a thin foam-type material that breaks up to clog your air filter and cooling fins. Remove it. It was placed there to minimize noise. Many owners have changed to civilian ignition systems to lessen cost. Yours is one of them. The carbs look standard to me. Good luck.

a good first preventive step is to replace the carb linkage end pieces and the shifter banjo bushings.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7290&p=52148&hilit ... ing#p52148

Welcome

Ed

Thanks for the info! I removed that nasty insulation from the air tunnel and am thinking of installing some matting I have left over from an equestrian hospital job. I've been starting is 2nd gear, but it's still difficult to find the right gears, just seems really loose. Also, the clutch pedal gets stuck when I'm in reverse.

The starter relay went out while out on my first real drive today. I was able to carefully unwind the transitor coil to give me enough cu to wrap the lead. I'm going to clean and modify the relay tonight, I love that it's not plastic.

I don't think there are many, if any Pinzgauers in the Greenville, sc/asheville area. The truck turns heads, and gets people talking.

Thanks again,

Alex

Welcome,

I recently purchased a 710M this year as well. This site is very helpful and filled with some very knowledgeable people. Use the search function, there is not much you can do to the truck that has not been discussed at length, usually.

Great classic to learn on, simple engine design, and very well built.

As far as your gear problem, you might check the plate on the underside of the cab. It's where the stick shift exits out of the cab floor and has some specific tolerances to make sure everything engages properly. 5 Minutes of adjusting and I found my lost reverse gear. It's in the manual, get one if you don't have one, it's a must.