Removing cylinder head
Removing cylinder head
Am I right in thinking that the cylinder heads are independent as there's only one I'd like to remove (the #4)?
Any pitfalls in removing/reinstalling it?
Any pitfalls in removing/reinstalling it?
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Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
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- Posts: 322
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2010 3:07 pm
- Location: Middletown, New York
Re: Removing cylinder head
Yes each one is independant of one another and can be pulled as such..what makes you want to do this?
life is like a box of chocolates...you never know which one you might get
710M
710M
Re: Removing cylinder head
I've got an oil leak from the #4 cylinder exhaust manifold stud and want to see if it's repairable
--
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Re: Removing cylinder head
Right, I've undone 4 nuts on the cylinder head, plus the manifolds, guide sheets etc. but it won't move more than 1/4" - do I need to pull harder or am I missing something?
--
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Re: Removing cylinder head
Well, after a lot grunting, swearing etc. and undoing the clip underneath the engine, the whole thing came out, cylinder and head. Not a lot of room to get them out and I don't think it's going to be easy getting them back in together.
Anyway, I can't get the two halves apart. The cylinder is cast iron and the head is aluminium - I can see a tiny gap between them so it must have moved a fraction (not enough to get a Stanley knife blade in or any sort of lever). I'm leaving it soaking in penetrating oil overnight but if it doesn't shift then, what can I do?
On the good news front, the suspect stud seems to be OK - the helicoil wasn't in flush. Doesn't explain where the oil leak was coming from, mind...
Anyway, I can't get the two halves apart. The cylinder is cast iron and the head is aluminium - I can see a tiny gap between them so it must have moved a fraction (not enough to get a Stanley knife blade in or any sort of lever). I'm leaving it soaking in penetrating oil overnight but if it doesn't shift then, what can I do?
On the good news front, the suspect stud seems to be OK - the helicoil wasn't in flush. Doesn't explain where the oil leak was coming from, mind...
--
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Re: Removing cylinder head
I'd think about 15 minutes in a 400 degree oven would do the trick.
'76 710K
Re: Removing cylinder head
I'll give it a go - I guess the components get hotter than that in normal usage anyway
--
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Re: Removing cylinder head
Spoke to an engineer at work and he suggested using a gurt big 'ammer. I held the cylinder in a padded vice and put a block of wood inside it, against the valves. A few taps and the head came free, which is a relief. Just trying to clean the old, baked on oil off the aluminium. Have left it soaking in kerosene overnight
--
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Re: Removing cylinder head
Well, it's back on again - couldn't space the rings properly (at 120º apart) but don't
think they're all lined up. Had a bit of a worried moment when I
couldn't turn the engine round by hand until I realised I'd knocked it
into gear.
I'm hoping the oil leak might have been from the return pipe as the seal was rock
solid.
The offending exhaust stud threadsert/Helicoil has been
replaced. It's not perfect but more solid than before - I wish I could
get hold of the person who has forced the wrong sized bolts into holes
designed to have inserts in them - similar story in one of the brake
drums!
I do need to check the voltage at the #1 solenoid when the engine is running as
it does click/move when tested otherwise
think they're all lined up. Had a bit of a worried moment when I
couldn't turn the engine round by hand until I realised I'd knocked it
into gear.
I'm hoping the oil leak might have been from the return pipe as the seal was rock
solid.
The offending exhaust stud threadsert/Helicoil has been
replaced. It's not perfect but more solid than before - I wish I could
get hold of the person who has forced the wrong sized bolts into holes
designed to have inserts in them - similar story in one of the brake
drums!
I do need to check the voltage at the #1 solenoid when the engine is running as
it does click/move when tested otherwise
--
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Re: Removing cylinder head
Starts up OK (worrying noise initially but am told that's normal as all the oil has drained out). Quietened down a bit after that.
Think oil leak might have been caused by hardened seal on the oil return tube. Doesn't appear to be leaking now
Think oil leak might have been caused by hardened seal on the oil return tube. Doesn't appear to be leaking now
--
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Re: Removing cylinder head
I have the same leak, I am about to work on it, I have the engine out. How was your long term repair job? Did it ever start leaking again?