Bosch 0190215006 Voltage Regulator substitutions?

[cascade.king]

Are there any substitution available for the Bosch 0.190.215.006 regulator, since it is no longer available?

[westernair]

Here in the states Leonardo has a couple in stock. I bought one from Technik in the UK.

[Heinkeljb]

I know there are a couple of places in the UK which advertise that they can produce a replacement for any old voltage regulator. A quick google found this:-

http://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw- ... 13903803-e

which would certainly do the job of changing the AC produced by the Dynastart into DC to charge the battery, but won't deal with the starting bit.

This is one of the web sites I was talking about:-

http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.c ... starts.php

But you could try this:-

http://dynamoregulators.com/

The only thing with these is you have to put in a starting solenoid if your Haflinger was fitted with the combine starter / regulator bosh unit. Later Haflingers like my 1973 have a separate starting solenoid and regulator.

John

[cascade.king]

Yeah, my Pathfinder has the separate components, but I have been told that the VW one could screwup the dynastarter.

[Heinkeljb]

These people make different variations which means you can match one to the output of the Haflinger dynastart.

http://www.dynamoregulators.com/voltage-regulators.php

Actually, I am not sure which bit of the dynastart you would be damaging if you fitted the VW one. The output from the coils of the dynastart will be quite high, in the region of 50 volts or so without any regulator connected - i.e. straight from the coils.
So the "regulator" does two things, one it converts the AC to DC current, two it drops the voltage down to what ever nominal rate your system is (12 volt or 24 volt). If it is for a 12 volt system, it will output voltage at about 12.75 to 15 volts (depending on how good a regulator it is).

The next item in the circuit is the battery. This will also help to put the voltage down as it converts the incoming current into chemical energy. The rate at which it charges is, I think what people are referring to when the they say it will damage the Haflinger system. The higher the current the regulator can charge the battery, the more power it must be able to get from the Dynastart coils. Obviously, if you take this to the extreme you are basically short circuiting the coils and they will produce so much power from the coils, that the resistance in the brushes and wires will end up becoming so hot they damage themselves and other items around them.

So the moral of all that is that you need to limit the amount of power you draw from the Dynastart. This is can be done just using a good battery as when it approaches fully charged it will reduce the amount of current it requires, BUT this is not a good way of doing things as if you have a problem with starting and you try several time before getting the engine going, the battery now requires that energy to be put back so will allow a much higher current to be drawn. See above for what happens when the current being drawn gets to high.

In comes the regulator!

This will limit the amount of current that can be drawn even when the battery is fully discharged. The Haflinger Dynastart is rated at 240 watts (Power = Current times Voltage, so Current = Power divided by Voltage):- 240/12=20Amps).

This is a simplistic calculation as the voltages are not exactly those in the real world, but it is near enough for us to conclude that using a regulator that is rated at 20 AMP's would be the best choice on a Haflinger Dynastart.

In the above link they sell one (DVR3) rated up to 22AMPs. This should be suitable. Only possible "fly in the ointment" I can see is the requirement for the field coils to be 2,5 ohms or more. I don't actually know what the resistance of the field coils on the Haflinger Dynastart are, but a quick check with a meter should answer that question.

It is what I would fit to mine if the existing regulator dies!

John
(p.s. sorry for the mega long post, but more information is better than too little)

[Jimm391730]

Several items have been said that do not jive with the official information; start on page 111 of this link: http://www.goatwerks.com/images/hafiepi ... manual.pdf
The dynastarter is a generator with brushes and a commutator; it gives a DC output and so it does not need any diodes for rectification. The regulator works like most common systems of the day by using the strength of a coil to open/close contacts to regulate the voltage and maximum current. If you can open up the regulator you might find that the only problem is the contacts are dirty or corroded and if so they can be cleaned and operation should be restored. If they are burnt, or the coils have been overheated, it would need replacing.

The strength of the spring that holds the contacts "open" (against the pull of the coil) sets the voltage and current limits. In the old days you would gently bend the part that holds the fixed end of the flexible contact so that the coil had to pull harder or less hard, and this would adjust the voltage and current settings. Page 114, "trouble elimination", part 7 mentions adjusting the regulator (but it doesn't go into the detail needed to walk you through any adjustments). Generally it is only the voltage coil that needs adjusting; the current coil typically won't need to be adjusted, but the contacts may need cleaning if they are still in decent shape.

Of course the rest of the six pages of information about the condition of the dynastarter itself, the wiring, the battery, etc. all need to be up to snuff before you start messing with the regulator. If you can open up the regulator and post a picture I might be able to tell if it looks like it needs replacing or can be salvaged and repaired.

Of one other note, on the dynastarter circuit diagram the circle with the X in it just to the right of the battery is the alternator idiot light; this bulb is a necessary requirement to ensure the dynastarter can become a generator -- once the engine is running, the slight amount of current that flows through the bulb energizes the dynastarter windings so that it can generate power; without that small starting current it may not produce any output at all. This is just one example of how EVERYTHING must be working properly for the whole system to work as it should.

[cascade.king]

Jeeze. I remember being told that a VW bug regulator would be problematic due to the amps being too high and causing damage to the Dynastarter.

[Jimm391730]

I remember being told that a VW bug regulator would be problematic due to the amps being too high and causing damage to the Dynastarter.

That may be true; I don't know if the VW regulator is compatible or not.

The regulator's main function is to control the output voltage so that the battery recharge is correct (not overcharging, not undercharging). However, the stock regulator as shown in the manual will reduce the output voltage slightly as the current draw increases; this helps to reduce the load on the dynastarter. But if the loads are proper (meaning mostly stock loads; no monster light sets!) then the dynastarter should never be overloaded. The regulator also has a fuse to protect the dynastarter from excessive load currents. If this fuse blows then the regulator will not pass the dynastarter output out to the truck and battery. It would be interesting to see if the fuse is replaceable. Unfortunately it looks like there is no way to test the fuse without opening the regulator.

[Heinkeljb]

I stand corrected!

The dynastart fitted to the Haflinger has a DC output.

The original regulator might be so rusty inside it's cover as to not be rescue'able, but the electronics one being solid state and probably potted, should be totally waterproof.

John

[Jim LaGuardia]

This looks like a good substitution http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-B ... 79&vxp=mtr
My NA Haflinger uses #0190215003 I ordered 1 from summit racing, waiting on ship date.

[cascade.king]

Thanks, Jim! I think you may be waiting awhile from Summit.. I'm not sure Bosch has them anymore..

[Jim LaGuardia]

I'll hope for the best on mine, but if I had extra cash I would get the one off of Ebay as it is proper for US Spec or Can spec Haflingers.

[Jim LaGuardia]

Summit cancelled order, took refund and purchased the one from Ebay listing.
Just a side note: A sticking(on) starter solenoid is the usual culprit in regulator failures

[pinzinator]

I also bought one from the EBay listing, just in case I ever need one in the future. You never know when a 50 year-old regulator might fail. Probably the day the last one is sold, then the price really goes up!

[Jim LaGuardia]

Got mine in mail today, stamped with the exact number from my original