reverse trouble

[Brickren]

Hello. I'm looking at my first Pinz. It's a '75 710M. Supposed to have a factory rebuild about 10k miles ago. Owner says revers has been getting hard to engage. He tried adjusting linkage but said he may have made it worse. Says won't go in any more. He says all forward gears work fine. So I don't think it's a trans problem. After doing research, I'm thinking shifter ball socket could be corroded or adjustment on linkage. The verticle dog bone off of shift rod to top of tranny is tight. Anyone have an opinion? Also, what size batteries are we running? Can't find info anywhere. Thank you. Brian.

[pcolette]

Batteries are Group 27. There is some size variance among manufacturers so it's best to measure first. I've used AC Delco and Diehard with no problems.

The reverse problem is possibly the reverse lockout bracket fastened to the body underside just below the shift lever. If it's out of adjustment it can completely block reverse gear.
#14 on the diagram:

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[Brickren]

Good deal. Is there a starting point for the bracket or is it just feel as you go? I imagine it's self evident once I tear into it. I read a post about pulling shifter ball socket apart and greasing it against the spring loaded plate. I want to do that first so I can get a feel for the shifter and make sure when I depress shift rod, that it feels smooth as glass. Thanks for the detailed diagram and explanation. I'm thinking the bracket may have shifted.

[krick3tt]

That spring is powerful, hold on to it when you take the bolts out.

[pcolette]

I'd start off by removing the bracket completely which should allow you to shift into reverse without depressing the shift lever. If you still can't shift into reverse than the problem may be in the linkage at the transmission or a more serious problem internal to the transmission.

When re-installing and adjusting the bracket it's much easier if you have a helper to operate the shifter while you observe from underneath. The Owners Manual has a section on adjusting the bracket/shifter clearance.

[Brickren]

So I remove bracket (14) holding reverse lockout. Should go in, right? No. So I look elsewhere. . .Assembly (7) looks bad, but still holding ball joints in place. Need replaced, though. Now after all this, I realize I am also not getting it into First. I try adjusting dog bone first 3 then 5 turns in one direction then 10 in other . Still no first or reverse. Cant even feel gear. The assembly that the shift rod connects to , there is a push rod. The housing that the pushrod is connected to, Do you think that something could be off in there or does it sound like a shifter fork is malfunctioning DEEP inside that mysterious box of magical conflicting gears? Kidding aside, I'm hoping after diving into the manual I just got, something simple for me appears. I dont see many post about trans trouble and that gives me hope. Thanks Brian.

[4x4Pinz]

look at part# 11 and 17. I have had these break and cause shifting problems. The top ones are easy but the bottom ones require a little care. I had to get a real strong magnet to get the pieces out. they are accessible from the outside of the tranny

[Brickren]

So by taking off the assy that has the plunger on top of trans that shift rod and dog bone are attached to, I should be able to see if fork fingers are broken, correct? Is there any care I need to worry about once I take bolts out and try and lift assy off? Springs fly out? Things aligning as I pull? Little genie fly away? Thanks. It is starting to look like a job for a tranny guy if it gets too involved. I'll try minor stuff, but I don't want to make a bigger problem. I can just see me taking a box full of gears and clips and saying "Hey, can you fix this?" HaHa. Not a pretty sight. I would like to try and take top assy off and look and see of those two fingers are there. Should fork alignment be easy reinstalling the assy? Thanks. Brian

[4x4Pinz]

The tower is not required to be removed as the pins are located outside the tranny housing. You will find small plates with a single bolt holding each of them in place. Remove the bolt and carefully slide plate up. the pin has an oring on it to seal the oil. In my case one of the pins broke at the plate and dropped down making contact with the gears, no real damage other then to the pin. First indication was metal chunks in the tranny, followed by difficult shifting.
If you choose to remove the shift tower for inspection there is no real surprises. Just need to pay attention to the location of the shift forks. We have seen a roll pin in the tower on the tower and that also caused shifting problems.
All these are relatively easy fixes.

[crcpinz]

My reverse does not engage unless the motor is running and I first engage First gear before attempting Reverse. I have assumed this is normal, is it not?

[krick3tt]

I have seen that done (going into first) but never tried it. I will give it a try as it is sometimes difficult to get into reverse with out several tries. Always willing to learn
more of the quirks of the vehicle. After owning it for 7 years, it surprises me the things I am still not aware of and thanks to this forum I continue to learn.

[Brickren]

Ok. It looks like the reverse fork pin is broken off of the tab that the10mm bolt goes through. Any ideas on how to get said pin out?

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[pcolette]

I believe the pin is steel and the case is not so a high strength cylindrical magnet may do the trick. If you are near a farm supply store they usually carry "cow magnets" which might work.

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[4x4Pinz]

yes, a strong magnet works well. I used a snap-on retrieval magnet. In some cases a little penetrating oil applied a few hours beforehand works well to help the pin move freely.

[Brickren]

Thanks. I'll try tomorrow. Im going to see if I can pick it out. Maybe I can tack it back together until I can get another. At least I can see if reverse will work.