G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
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G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
Either way I've been giving google translate a work out, along with an exploded parts book I found online, to try and locate all the correct stuff.
Apparently my 1966 Haf has "early" front drive shafts and the language barrier is a bit of a problem looking for CV boots!
Anyhoo I'll try posting a picture;)
Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
Well, if you filled out your profile, people would be able to point you in the direction of suppliers who can provide the spares you require.
The most likely place is a split in the rubber boot, but they do also leak from the two "O" rings that are on the pivot point pins.
The rubber boots can be replaced with either split versions or whole ones which require you to take the drive shafts off in order to fit them.
You will probably find you need to get hold of the repair manual as well as the parts book so you can work out how to do things when you don't have access to this place or the other Haflinger forums.
John
The most likely place is a split in the rubber boot, but they do also leak from the two "O" rings that are on the pivot point pins.
The rubber boots can be replaced with either split versions or whole ones which require you to take the drive shafts off in order to fit them.
You will probably find you need to get hold of the repair manual as well as the parts book so you can work out how to do things when you don't have access to this place or the other Haflinger forums.
John
Admin for www.thehaflinger.com
Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
Apologises for the above!
Just had it pointed out to me that I had not filled in my location...... Doh!
Have rectified that mistake now.
Still the sentiment remains the same, filling in your location allows others to point you in the right direction regarding spares etc.
There are several English speaking suppliers (i.e. native English speakers), a number of suppliers who will do their best about understanding an English written request and a few that you need to use a translation service before you'll have any luck.
John
Just had it pointed out to me that I had not filled in my location...... Doh!
Have rectified that mistake now.
Still the sentiment remains the same, filling in your location allows others to point you in the right direction regarding spares etc.
There are several English speaking suppliers (i.e. native English speakers), a number of suppliers who will do their best about understanding an English written request and a few that you need to use a translation service before you'll have any luck.
John
Admin for www.thehaflinger.com
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- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2015 7:36 am
- Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
Thanks John
Update posted.
I've had some luck with a carburettor service in the US who can supply a reputable carburettor kit for the NDIX 32 although I have to work out what accelerator pump plunger is fitted to the thing.
Previous owner has furnished a factory repair manual,which has proved handy, but the parts list was invaluable when trying to deal with Austrian parts suppliers. They have been helpful but pictures are great. As far as I can establish they're cheaper than the english speaking suppliers, and streets ahead of the american speaking ones;)
Are the split axle boots a good idea or just a stop gap?
I'm sad to find a strut/tie rod mounting bolt is loose on the chassis & one rear wheel is thus able to travel 20mm? fore and aft... the swing arm pivots must be shagged as a result. I've ordered rubber bushes so if I have to heat the bolt to get the nuts loose that will be ok. I'm not sure exactly what I'll find in the way of tapered spacers that give it a wheel alignment? If a new bolt is available I might just cut it out.
I'm aware that the swing arm pivots are/were available in some oversizes, I don't know if I should get those or wether a replacement bush and pin gets me back to as new condition?
Anyhoo I'd better get going for now.
Cheers for your help.
Anthony
Update posted.
I've had some luck with a carburettor service in the US who can supply a reputable carburettor kit for the NDIX 32 although I have to work out what accelerator pump plunger is fitted to the thing.
Previous owner has furnished a factory repair manual,which has proved handy, but the parts list was invaluable when trying to deal with Austrian parts suppliers. They have been helpful but pictures are great. As far as I can establish they're cheaper than the english speaking suppliers, and streets ahead of the american speaking ones;)
Are the split axle boots a good idea or just a stop gap?
I'm sad to find a strut/tie rod mounting bolt is loose on the chassis & one rear wheel is thus able to travel 20mm? fore and aft... the swing arm pivots must be shagged as a result. I've ordered rubber bushes so if I have to heat the bolt to get the nuts loose that will be ok. I'm not sure exactly what I'll find in the way of tapered spacers that give it a wheel alignment? If a new bolt is available I might just cut it out.
I'm aware that the swing arm pivots are/were available in some oversizes, I don't know if I should get those or wether a replacement bush and pin gets me back to as new condition?
Anyhoo I'd better get going for now.
Cheers for your help.
Anthony
- Attachments
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- Old style? CV joint
- IMG_20150710_4585 cv.jpg (37.44 KiB) Viewed 10969 times
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- worn, not that you can see
- IMG_20150710_12461 swing pivot.jpg (31.85 KiB) Viewed 10969 times
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- loose in the chassis
- IMG_20150710_37418 strut.jpg (32.67 KiB) Viewed 10969 times
Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
G'Day Anthony, I figured by your post language (and the rubbish bins ) you were an Aussie
I'm guessing that you know about Tony H and his Haflinger spare parts business in Melbourne and John B, in Beetaloo Valley, SA.
Tony is a good sources of parts, info etc and John B might be a handy "local" contact, but if don't know them just let me know and I'II forward you their details.
Additionally you may also be interested in this Forum......... http://www.haflingerclub.org.au/
I must admit I'm more interested in Pinzgauers these days, but I still have two Haflingers which I intend to rebuild in my retirement.
Good Luck with the Haffy!
I'm guessing that you know about Tony H and his Haflinger spare parts business in Melbourne and John B, in Beetaloo Valley, SA.
Tony is a good sources of parts, info etc and John B might be a handy "local" contact, but if don't know them just let me know and I'II forward you their details.
Additionally you may also be interested in this Forum......... http://www.haflingerclub.org.au/
I must admit I'm more interested in Pinzgauers these days, but I still have two Haflingers which I intend to rebuild in my retirement.
Good Luck with the Haffy!
Peter
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
The top picture showing the front wheel - the steering stop (the horn shaped thing) need to be turned round to point in the "2" o'clock position so it makes contact with the arm / stop on the wheel hub when you are on full lock.
The split gaiters work perfectly well if you put them on properly to clean mounting points. Any gaiter is going to leak if the pivot points allow movement in directions they are not supposed to move in!
Unless you have access to workshop type tools, lathes, milling machine etc. getting new pivot pins and the aluminium mountings would be the best way to go. Putting oversize pins in means you should ream the holes to make sure they are the correct size and parallel.
Lots of "PlusGas" or an equivalent penetrating fluid (Not WD40) on the mountings should allow you to take them apart. Just remember they control the "squareness! of the running gear - get it wrong and you Haflinger will "crab" and wear out tyres quickly...
John
The split gaiters work perfectly well if you put them on properly to clean mounting points. Any gaiter is going to leak if the pivot points allow movement in directions they are not supposed to move in!
Unless you have access to workshop type tools, lathes, milling machine etc. getting new pivot pins and the aluminium mountings would be the best way to go. Putting oversize pins in means you should ream the holes to make sure they are the correct size and parallel.
Lots of "PlusGas" or an equivalent penetrating fluid (Not WD40) on the mountings should allow you to take them apart. Just remember they control the "squareness! of the running gear - get it wrong and you Haflinger will "crab" and wear out tyres quickly...
John
Admin for www.thehaflinger.com
Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
As John said - the oil leak will be from the swing arm boot, if you look closely you will see it will have perished and cracked. Split boots work Ok but everything needs to be squeaky clean when you put them in and I advise sealant on all surfaces. They can be fiddly. I have replaced all four on my Haffie and they work well. The whole design is a bit silly - having the swing arms full of diff oil with the swing arm boots keeping it all in is ridiculous.
The other source of a leak - as John mentioned - are the swing arm fulcrums - another strange design as they use diff oil for lubrication rather than greased bushes or even rubber bushes where no lubrication would be required. The o rings either side of the diff end of the swing arm are supposed to keep the oil in but they are exposed to dirt and wear quickly. Mine all leak but I have replaced the original o rings with slightly thinker ones and the leaks have been reduced.
At the outer front, looks like you have the old CVs with a rubber boot - I have the later ones enclosed in a metal sphere. I rebuilt mine recently and had no issues doing so. With yours I guess you need to get new boots and repack the actual CV.
Good luck
Garry
The other source of a leak - as John mentioned - are the swing arm fulcrums - another strange design as they use diff oil for lubrication rather than greased bushes or even rubber bushes where no lubrication would be required. The o rings either side of the diff end of the swing arm are supposed to keep the oil in but they are exposed to dirt and wear quickly. Mine all leak but I have replaced the original o rings with slightly thinker ones and the leaks have been reduced.
At the outer front, looks like you have the old CVs with a rubber boot - I have the later ones enclosed in a metal sphere. I rebuilt mine recently and had no issues doing so. With yours I guess you need to get new boots and repack the actual CV.
Good luck
Garry
1973 Haflinger AP700
1977 Landrover FC 101
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1971 Jaguar Series 3 E-Type Conv
1957 Landrover 88" Station Wagon
1957 Landrover 88"
1977 Landrover FC 101
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1971 Jaguar Series 3 E-Type Conv
1957 Landrover 88" Station Wagon
1957 Landrover 88"
Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
Just been looking at your pictures again.
I wonder if it might be leaking from the drive shaft oil seal, but I don't think so. Usually that produces an oil trail at the bottom of the wheel hub / swivel pin / lower king pin area.
It order to replace the gaiter on the outboard universal joint (Manual calls it a Rezepa joint), you have to disconnect the brake pipe to the hub, undo and remove the top and bottom swivel pins and tehn pull the whole hub and rezepa joint from the drive shaft.
In fact there shouldn't be an awful lot of oil / grease coming from that part as the grease used is high melting point type stuff and so shouldn't turn to oil and leak out in great quantities - BUT - the real issue with split gaiters there is that it might allow dirt / stones / sticks to get into the universal joint which might cause the wheel to lockup, or just wear out quickly.
Unless the fulcrum point actually have movement in them - the repair manual state they will develop some (from new), but that it should not get worse quickly. I would live with that amount of oil weep!
Clean the existing oil leak areas, run the Haf, then check to see exactly where the oil leak is starting from. Oil has tendency to spread from the original leak point far and wide!
John
I wonder if it might be leaking from the drive shaft oil seal, but I don't think so. Usually that produces an oil trail at the bottom of the wheel hub / swivel pin / lower king pin area.
It order to replace the gaiter on the outboard universal joint (Manual calls it a Rezepa joint), you have to disconnect the brake pipe to the hub, undo and remove the top and bottom swivel pins and tehn pull the whole hub and rezepa joint from the drive shaft.
In fact there shouldn't be an awful lot of oil / grease coming from that part as the grease used is high melting point type stuff and so shouldn't turn to oil and leak out in great quantities - BUT - the real issue with split gaiters there is that it might allow dirt / stones / sticks to get into the universal joint which might cause the wheel to lockup, or just wear out quickly.
Unless the fulcrum point actually have movement in them - the repair manual state they will develop some (from new), but that it should not get worse quickly. I would live with that amount of oil weep!
Clean the existing oil leak areas, run the Haf, then check to see exactly where the oil leak is starting from. Oil has tendency to spread from the original leak point far and wide!
John
Admin for www.thehaflinger.com
Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
You can see that the CV boot is split (cracked) and it looks as if the marks are grease marks but in addition the oil seal in the swing arm where the drive shaft comes out and goes into the CV is most likely leaking as well.
In my limited experience with Haffies, if one bit of rubber has failed then the rest is on its way out or has failed so all will have to be replaced.
Garry
In my limited experience with Haffies, if one bit of rubber has failed then the rest is on its way out or has failed so all will have to be replaced.
Garry
1973 Haflinger AP700
1977 Landrover FC 101
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1971 Jaguar Series 3 E-Type Conv
1957 Landrover 88" Station Wagon
1957 Landrover 88"
1977 Landrover FC 101
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1971 Jaguar Series 3 E-Type Conv
1957 Landrover 88" Station Wagon
1957 Landrover 88"
Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
Quick and possibly stupid question: Do all Haflingers have CV joint boots? Mine didn't have them when I got it and I thought it was strange, but nothing about these machines is quite normal, so I never looked into that.
1972 Steyr-Puch Haflinger
1984 VW\Bombardier Iltis
1984 VW\Bombardier Iltis
Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
My understanding is that earlier hafffies have CVs with rubber boots and the later ones are an all metal unit.
http://www.haflingertechnik.com/ftp/tec ... pdfs/4.pdf
http://www.haflingertechnik.com/ftp/tec ... pdfs/4.pdf
1973 Haflinger AP700
1977 Landrover FC 101
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1971 Jaguar Series 3 E-Type Conv
1957 Landrover 88" Station Wagon
1957 Landrover 88"
1977 Landrover FC 101
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1971 Jaguar Series 3 E-Type Conv
1957 Landrover 88" Station Wagon
1957 Landrover 88"
Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
If you don't ask the stupid questions, you will make mistakes that cost you money! So be smart - ask the questions!
Rubber boots at the Diff end of the drive shaft - on all Haflingers.
Rubber boots on universal joints were fitted to early Haflingers, but due to parts replacements which happen to vehicles with long production runs or are still going well after production has stopped tend to have some strange combinations of parts fitted to them! So it is possible that a later style metal cover universal joint has been fitted to an early production Haflinger giving rise to questions of when certain parts where introduced on a model. The other way round is also possible if some "new old stock" was found.
So you might find that you have to go for very expensive "current" production replacement parts for certain things.
Like:-
http://www.haflingertechnik.com/html/in ... r%20spares
John
Rubber boots at the Diff end of the drive shaft - on all Haflingers.
Rubber boots on universal joints were fitted to early Haflingers, but due to parts replacements which happen to vehicles with long production runs or are still going well after production has stopped tend to have some strange combinations of parts fitted to them! So it is possible that a later style metal cover universal joint has been fitted to an early production Haflinger giving rise to questions of when certain parts where introduced on a model. The other way round is also possible if some "new old stock" was found.
So you might find that you have to go for very expensive "current" production replacement parts for certain things.
Like:-
http://www.haflingertechnik.com/html/in ... r%20spares
John
Admin for www.thehaflinger.com
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- Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
Well, I've lost a heap of text so I'll just ask a pressing question.
The front suspension check strap has to be replaced & I'm not sure if the upper mounting bolt is one piece from the shock absorber right through to the check strap (like the bottom) or wether I have to get the nut off the front to remove the old strap. The castle nut is retained with a solid/roll pin instead of a split pun so with the engine air intake tube running underneath, it'll be an arse to remove...
The front suspension check strap has to be replaced & I'm not sure if the upper mounting bolt is one piece from the shock absorber right through to the check strap (like the bottom) or wether I have to get the nut off the front to remove the old strap. The castle nut is retained with a solid/roll pin instead of a split pun so with the engine air intake tube running underneath, it'll be an arse to remove...
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Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
Here's the mounting in question...
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- Upper mount bolt/stud
- tmp_16461-IMG_20150830_433111489209534.jpg (46.37 KiB) Viewed 10744 times
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Re: G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?
Remove the lower shock bolt first, then raise wheel off ground and remove. Push down on suspension and remove the spring.
Now you can get at the top bolt easier
Now you can get at the top bolt easier