Clutch Master Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Clutch master developing a leak, time to rebuild/repair.
Decided to go both routes, replace with a new FTE and rebuild the old (time permitting) as a spare.
New one arrived yesterday from EI.
My old one uses a Banjo with the Hydraulic line exiting down at 6PM. The new eliminates the
Banjo with an exit off to the side at 3PM. Scott confirmed there is sufficient line to connect.
Just seems like a lot of manipulation, so before I do this, thought I'd ask if anyone here has
replaced with this newer style attachment point and any pearls of wisdom on routing/bending -- a
PIX of the area would be really nice.
Prior experience with Hydraulic lines --you want to avoid going down a false path then to unbend mistakes
Decided to go both routes, replace with a new FTE and rebuild the old (time permitting) as a spare.
New one arrived yesterday from EI.
My old one uses a Banjo with the Hydraulic line exiting down at 6PM. The new eliminates the
Banjo with an exit off to the side at 3PM. Scott confirmed there is sufficient line to connect.
Just seems like a lot of manipulation, so before I do this, thought I'd ask if anyone here has
replaced with this newer style attachment point and any pearls of wisdom on routing/bending -- a
PIX of the area would be really nice.
Prior experience with Hydraulic lines --you want to avoid going down a false path then to unbend mistakes
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
I had to do this 2-3 years ago. It looked like a potential headache at first but was actually fairly easy. The compression fitting on the line that connects to the banjo fitting screws directly into the new cylinder body with no problem. The hydraulic line needs just a small amount of bending by hand to line it up properly.
Paul C.
_________
'73 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE
_________
'73 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
Was your new fitting "clocked" 90 degrees up to the 3PM position
versus what you show in your PIX at the 6PM position?
Just seems like a 90 degree rotation gets you close to the Brake peddle ?
thanks.
versus what you show in your PIX at the 6PM position?
Just seems like a 90 degree rotation gets you close to the Brake peddle ?
thanks.
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
I think this is on one of my current trucks. I'll try to get a photo of it later.
Paul C.
_________
'73 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE
_________
'73 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
Thanks Paul.
Just for reference here's a PIX of the new Master showing the exit on the side
clocked to the 3PM position.
ron
Just for reference here's a PIX of the new Master showing the exit on the side
clocked to the 3PM position.
ron
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
- Jimm391730
- Posts: 1456
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 10:58 pm
- Location: Idyllwild, CA
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
Hi Ron, I just did mine earlier this summer and ran into the same issue. Yes, I was able to pull another inch or two from the line and I put about a 1 to 1-1/2" radius in the line just before the fitting and get it into the master port. Not really much to it (but I was likewise bummed that I had to make the modification), but it will be this weekend before I can get you a photo if Paul doesn't beat me to it.
Jim M.
712W and 710M
712W and 710M
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
Well it's darn good to know it's been done. I presume you didn't have to
remove the Brake peddle -- move the line to the right of the peddle then
re-plumb. All you had to do was "putz" around with getting a wee bit more
slack in the line and keep it in the middle position between both peddles?
Ya a PIX is worth a 1,000 words on this one
I'm also glad to hear that you all also thought this was a challenge and it's
not just me being a complete woose
ron
remove the Brake peddle -- move the line to the right of the peddle then
re-plumb. All you had to do was "putz" around with getting a wee bit more
slack in the line and keep it in the middle position between both peddles?
Ya a PIX is worth a 1,000 words on this one
I'm also glad to hear that you all also thought this was a challenge and it's
not just me being a complete woose
ron
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
Here's a few photos which hopefully will help.
Paul C.
_________
'73 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE
_________
'73 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
Yes! Very helpful!
Thanks.
Ron
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks.
Ron
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
- Jimm391730
- Posts: 1456
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 10:58 pm
- Location: Idyllwild, CA
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
While the bend does move the clutch line closer to being over top of the brake pedal, remember that the pedal moves DOWN, away from the clutch master. And my foot is securely on the pedal, below the bend, and moves away from the clutch line as I press the brake. In other words I don't feel that the modification has any effect on the fit of feet on the pedals; it is just a non-issue.
Paul's photos (yup, he beat me to it) generally reflect my truck as well. I think my 90 degree bend was a smidge tighter.
Paul's photos (yup, he beat me to it) generally reflect my truck as well. I think my 90 degree bend was a smidge tighter.
Jim M.
712W and 710M
712W and 710M
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
My concern was more the bends and overall additional length
req. so that there was adequate clearance to the "stroke" path
of the peddle to the line and not having too tight a bend radius
to do so. Based on Paul's PIX's looks like there's no big issue here.
req. so that there was adequate clearance to the "stroke" path
of the peddle to the line and not having too tight a bend radius
to do so. Based on Paul's PIX's looks like there's no big issue here.
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
- TechMOGogy
- Posts: 2831
- Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2012 11:39 am
- Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
I know this is an older thread but wondering how it went with the clutch line bend?
What I thought was a brake master/booster issue last fall is now confirmed as a clutch master issue as the clutch fluid is the one that is lower
I assume its best to just bite the bullet and buy a new clutch master vs trying to rebuild (I have never rebuilt any clutch or brake master so not sure I want to start doing it now unless there were step x step instructions with lots of photos )
Other question would be why not just buy a 90 degree metric Female/Male fitting and use that for the bend - assume this would not be an issue do we know what size fitting it is?
Thanks,
Dan
What I thought was a brake master/booster issue last fall is now confirmed as a clutch master issue as the clutch fluid is the one that is lower
I assume its best to just bite the bullet and buy a new clutch master vs trying to rebuild (I have never rebuilt any clutch or brake master so not sure I want to start doing it now unless there were step x step instructions with lots of photos )
Other question would be why not just buy a 90 degree metric Female/Male fitting and use that for the bend - assume this would not be an issue do we know what size fitting it is?
Thanks,
Dan
72 Pathfinder | 75 710M 2.7i | 96 350GDT Worker
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
It was far easier than it looked. The hardest part was threading the compression nut into the Master.
Doesn't take much of an "off" angle for that to happen
I not only bought a new Master but also a rebuild kit. I replaced with new then re-built the old as a spare.
Now in a Ziplock bag with a desiccant
Doesn't take much of an "off" angle for that to happen
I not only bought a new Master but also a rebuild kit. I replaced with new then re-built the old as a spare.
Now in a Ziplock bag with a desiccant
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q