So I found this in the oil pan..

[baremetalworks]

Hello everyone, so I finally got some down time to do some maintenance and started to do the first oil change since Ive had my pinz. Drained the oil and before I put the plug back in I stuck a finger in oil drain hole to get an idea of sludge in there and to my surprise what I felt was a bolt.

so Iv identified where the bolt came from but can anyone clue me in to the other pieces? this motor has always ran fine.

thanks


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[baremetalworks]

as far as I can tell this is the front and rear oil pump gaskets? and the front suction tube screen? what I don’t understand is how the gaskets were off with the bolts still fastened securely?


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[baremetalworks]

took the oil pump out today, there was a gasket on the front of the pump where the bolts were still in and the rear was gone, im assuming it’s the chewed up one i found in the pan.


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[baremetalworks]

the front suction tube doesn’t seem to want to slide out? would that indicate that the screen is still on it? and if so am i missing something is there another screen? thanks


also i have new gaskets ordered i plan to reinstall and torque to spec. if that is the the screen and i cannot get it back on there without taking the engine further apart would it be ok to run it that way?


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[TechMOGogy]

Nuts!
Sorry I am not much help as I have not messed with the oil pump/intake
Others should chime in shortly

[baremetalworks]

another pic of the screen


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[pinzinator]

Go to the SAV web site and search part number 7121071010 and you will see the gaskets.
As for the screen, search part number 7121071182.

[Haf-e]

Here is the parts drawing - item number 76

Oil Pump Pickup.jpg (31.16 KiB) Viewed 8805 times

[Haf-e]

So I suppose the damaged pickup screen might be due to prolonged vibration? Perhaps it happened previously as well and the mechanic didn't find the gasket(s) when it was fixed?

[baremetalworks]

Thanks for the replies guys, Ive got new gaskets ordered. the pickup screen is what concerns me now.

the suction tube slides through a hole in the block toward the front of the case which as far I can tell isn’t easily accessible. what I was saying is that the tube will not slide out of this hole leading me to believe it has a screen attached to the end of it?

as Haf-e suggested Im thinking that the screen and mangled gaskets I found in the oil pan might have been leftover from a previous repair and had been left in the engine block.

has anyone else had an issue with oil pump bolts coming loose?

thanks!




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[The true Pinzgauer´s]

the lossen Screw´s are a know proby factory side. see service Information (i have only in german)

001.jpg (166.9 KiB) Viewed 8780 times

in the spare part picture are the new version screw´s no 93 +92 they are Ripp-Screws( selflooking) also as Kit at http://www.puch.at/2717_Oelwanne-_-Oelpumpe.aspx?LNG=de Position 40 available. Check the EngineNumber and Engine Part number on the right side befpr remount, beetter messure the deep of the thread holé there are different engine case!
check the sealing surfaces for the cooper seal for the oir drain! it will be damage, by this pictures. grind the seal surface espacelly in the engine case.

the Oil tube can mostly not remove from the closed engine case because it is fixed in a canal.
if you can get it out, remove the hard-welded hole-panel, contuse the end of the tube and drill some new 2mm holes, that´s the factory side´s last version.

If you can´t pull it out, let it in...it is only for extrem down hill driving condition´s, it pump the oil first cylinder area into the oil pan, the second selection of the Main Pump sucked the oil there and press it into the case.

the oil pump pressure vale should be removed and the sealing surface have to be checked / regrinded. if you need much grinding, messure the opening pressure.

[one2many]

Thank you "The True Pinzgauer's" that type of information (above) is priceless IMO as it generally stays in the specialist workshops it was realised in.

Does Stec/Puch have a list or file (in English) of all the factory revisions over the years and that is available to the public? I recently had my sump off and had I known of the above revision or even the existence of a problem I most certainly would have at very least removed and re-loctited the problem bolts...would have saved me from having to redo this job again.

Perhaps if someone knows about all these revisions they can start a topic listing them all...I can think of only two others atm off the top of my head and they are EXEC II diff and the three 10.9 hub bolts and sealing rings on each (rear?) axle. Perhaps there are more but a new topic should be started.

[baremetalworks]

Thanks True Pinzgauer’s, this was exactly what I wanted to know about the oil suction tube, great information as one2many said. Im gonna have to check the case numbers tomorrow and see where I’m at on this.

here’s the google translate text for others interested:

0.14 01Pump attachment without spring washer 26819 (B8 DIN 127) Modification: Removal of spring washers and securing of screws with Loctite 222 E. Tightening value: 24 Nn (2.4 mkp) Cause More accurate connection against vibration 0CTITE S insert: From motor no. 575.8214, for engine repairs, carry out a new fastening method 0.14.1 pump attachment with RIPP screws Change: New type of screw and grade 1 piece N 141600061 M0x55 10.9 and 2 pieces N 141600051 M8x80 10.9 Securing by means of Loctite 222 E OCTITE Tightening value: 35 N original ur from use of the new crankshaft 712.3.01.101.0 RTot (change of thread depth) LOCTITF Cause: Unification of the screw lengths S-insert From engine no. 576.9054 o.15 Oil suction tube 712. 1.07.107.2 Change: Reduction of the sieve from 75 mm 75 all around the circumference (image / 1 to 54 mm or sieve to hard-soldered whole circumference.) Cause Severe vibrations Screen breaks Note Check for engine repairs of the suction tube for complete sieving of the sieve, if necessary, check the sieve as shown in Figure 1. Then free the tube of scale S-insert: From motor No. 576.2172 usable from the 1st motor


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[Hotzenplotz]

Thanks True Pinzgauer’s, this was exactly what I wanted to know about the oil suction tube, great information as one2many said. Im gonna have to check the case numbers tomorrow and see where I’m at on this.

let me do this translation, google has room for improvement


0.14 Oil pump attachment without spring washer
modification:remove the spring washers and secure the screws with loctite 222E., tighten to 24 Nm torque
reason: more precise connection against vibrations
implemented from engine no 575.8214, apply to all engines during repairs

0.14 Oil pump attachment with RIPP screws
modification: new screw type and quality class; 1 item N141600061 M8x65 10.9 , and 2 items N141600051 M8x80 10.9, secure the screws with loctite 222E., tighten to 35 Nm torque
usage : only possible with crankshaft housing 712.3.01.101.0, changed depth of thread
reason: standardization of screw length
implemented from engine 575.9054 onward

0.16 Oil sucktion pipe 712.1.07.107.2
modification: filter shortened from 75 to 54 mm; filter soldered at whole circumference
reason: strong vibrations causing cracks
hint:during every repair inspect the suction pipe for proper soldering ; resolder if needed
implemented from engine 576.2172, apply to all engines during repairs


Wolfgang, Danke für das Dokument !

[baremetalworks]

Thank you Hotzenplotz for the better translation! that clarifies things, I have to put the pinz on hold for a bit while I get the wifes jeep fixed and take care of some business but I will update soon when I get a chance to put it all back together.