THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I don't own one but would seriously consider a 2'nd gen Pinz if it could be titled in my local :((

I'd be less concerned about reliability and more concerned about parts availability and who's
going to service the rig for any major repairs such as drive line components. I believe both the ...

Ditto...$100 here as well.
I consider it my annual subscription

Didn't know I had a copy of the Austrian version schematic, attached. It's simple !

On the Swiss version the front and rear turn signals are separated and essentially a dual circuit
for front and rear and two blink sources from the hazard switch.

The Austrian is one circuit for left and one ...

Oh! The Austrian turn signal switch is simpler.

The Swiss turn signal switch is way more complicated than need be :((
They are a PITA to debug.

But...check your connections back to the Emergency switch, should be two wires.
A Black/Purple and a Black/Green. These lines provide the "blinking" power to the
turn switch. Could just be a loose or ...

Yup, that's your problem. You might get recovery flushing the hell out of
the circuit. It is also possible the slave cylinder is toast the black could
be the gasket material.

As long as there is no corrosion internally the cylinders are easily re-built.

The original cylinders were chrome plated ...

Check the clutch fluid reservoir, low or discolored ?
Might have a bad seal in the master or slave cylinder
and not holding pressure or fully actuating, air in there
possibly.

Sitting for so long you need to replace all fluids anyway.

Curious what others experiences are with the Split Axle Boots.
It is certainly far more convenient to install then pulling Axles,
especially the front Diff.

BUT! I noticed that on both my trucks, each of which have a Split
boot on the Front Left Axle, have developed a crack just above
the bolted ...

I've missed your postings Propinz !!

Glad to hear from you. Summer now in the labd of Oz Eh.

cheers

Hmmm... that's interesting. I go by page 24 section "O" of the repair manual.
I've ignored those cold/hot settings as being bogus. Although I have assumed
they were at idle as it doesn't say one way or the other.

The graph on pg 24 shows the desired advance vs RPM. At 900 RPM between
0 to 8 degrees ...

A bit of splitting hairs -- so to speak.

Lets say cold is 25C and hot is 100C. Then the centrifugal force springs
are going to have a lower spring constant at hot, and thus a bit more
advance. So they are compensating for cold vs hot springs.

Just ignore this. The advance for the Pinz is set for ...

No practical way to do that. All you need to do is hand-lap until the
head mating surface looks consistent. Your just taking off any dings
and slight unevenness. Any micro-gaps will self-seal with carbon.

The only potential issue is if the head warped due to over heating
or being over torqued ...

You mean MENTAL issues

A polish on the cylinder is an OK thing to do, I never had one that needed it.

To hand lap the head to the cylinder, lock the cylinder in a vise, apply lapping
compound to the head, place the head on the cylinder and rotate back and forth
checking until done -- it can be time consuming.

Sealing ...

What's your end goal here? Are you going to hone and re-ring?

In any case the standard approach is to hand-lap the heads to
their respective cylinders. Or if $'s are no object get them fly cut.

I've done several top ends and hand lapped with good results.

BTW now that the heads or off, you really ...