THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I just went through a bit of studying on oil for the Pinz. Here is my 2 cents:

First any oil you can buy today is better than what was available in 1972. In 1972 the oil changed in viscosity a lot more than modern oil. Even modern SAE 30 is something like 20w30. My Pinz manual says to use SAE 30 ...

I found my oil leak. Not only were the seals bad on the pushrod tubes and drain tubes, the drain tubes themselves were bad. They were all rubbing against a fin on the jugs. They were all worn badly, some to the point of leaking.

It seems like the real bugaboo with using the intake manifold to supply the motive force for ventilation is that it will mess up the air/fuel ratio. I would think the current set up would work pretty well if you just added a filtered air inlet into the crankcase somewhere. Again I am thinking maybe ...

Something I have learned recently is that during WW II some trucks used base pressure from the engines to slightly pressurize the gear boxes during fording. This extra pressure assured that no water got into the gear boxes. My understanding was that it was something you would only use when fording.

Ron,

#4 cylinder had low compression and some oil fouling of the plug. My original intention was to change just that cylinder/piston/head. I found lots of oil/crude on the cooling fins, apparently from the seals on the pushrod tubes so we pulled all the cylinders and heads to clean the cooling ...

Colder on a gasoline engine could be related to a richer mixture. I assume this is at idle? If so, try fiddling with idle mixture screw on that cylinder to see if it changes temperature.

Hi,

I have the heads off on my 710 and by the carbon marks I suspect I may have had some leakage between the cylinder and heads. How do I make sure I have a good seal here?

Jim

Hmm. West sells System 3 Epoxy, West System Epoxy, and polyester resin. The epoxies usually come with squirt pumps. The polyester usually has hardener in a tube. Polyester usually takes just a few drops of hardener. Epoxy’s are usually 3:1or 5:1. Any of that ring a bell? Did you use fiberglass cloth ...

I have a crack in my engine cover. Is there something I can use to fix it?

I replaced the voltage regulator and all is well. Before cranking the voltage at the batteries was 24.5. After cranking the voltage was 28.1 from idle to full rpm. I suspect the voltage regulator was damaged when the black D- wire broke between the alternator and the regulator. It was very hard to ...

I understand the vectors were a flop mostly due to the weight. Can the armor be easily removed to get the weight down? Are they good for parts for a 718?

I checked voltage at D+ terminal going into regulator and it matches voltage at battery, B+, and D+. I also unplugged the voltage regulator and inspected connections which looked good.. This makes me think sensing voltage at regulator is correct. I suspect it is the regulator. Should have one late ...

Can anyone tell me what the D- wire between the alternator and regulator is for? Does it just ground the field winding?

The charging voltage on my 710 is too high. I had a bad battery and checked the charging voltage after I replaced it and found it well over 30 volts. I found a break in the black wire between D- on alternator and D- on regulator and repaired it but that did not lower the voltage. I checked voltage ...

Andre stopped by and worked on my truck for me. He caught up on a bunch of things I should have gotten to but have been too busy. He dis a great job.