Mike I agree with everything you have stated in this post.
Seeing the failure after the event is hard to put your fingers on causes.
Aggressive driving and maintenance shortcomings after being on the trail all contribute to the big picture as you have accurately have pointed out.
My original comment was to alert owners to the fact that a wider rim and bigger tyres show a correlation to bearing/seal failure in SOME instances but failure statistics from our records cannot accurately pinpoint the causes. One thing we have noticed is that Koyo bearings don't live up in Pinzgauers. The most noticeable part from the hub is the transfer case. We only use Timken for those applications these days. I questioned the findings to our bearing supplier who "suggested" that Koyo are actually made in China as component parts and then assembled in Japan. This perhaps explains the shorcomings and highlights the need to question the real source of replacement parts installed in your vehicles.
Dennis
How wide are stock wheels? Thoughts on running wider ones?
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lindenengineering
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Dennis
The bearing type of information is what I like to see coming from the service people. The service types see enough of aftermarket replacement failures to be able to put a finger on the problems. Would be great to get a list of the known aftermarket replacement parts which don't hold up in a Pinz. I know the CR rear engine seal have been suspect also. Fortunately I have not had to deal with it but a couple of people I have seen use them had to go back later and change them out for original.
While off topic, Dennis have you seen any difference in hub seal quality between brands?
The bearing type of information is what I like to see coming from the service people. The service types see enough of aftermarket replacement failures to be able to put a finger on the problems. Would be great to get a list of the known aftermarket replacement parts which don't hold up in a Pinz. I know the CR rear engine seal have been suspect also. Fortunately I have not had to deal with it but a couple of people I have seen use them had to go back later and change them out for original.
While off topic, Dennis have you seen any difference in hub seal quality between brands?
Mike
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lindenengineering
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Mike
There are a number of observation I have noted that come immediately to mind.
The CR rear main seal is much harder in Neoprene and in Viton is "tongue in cheek" resembling the very soft original that works superbly well.
CR hub seals seem to work fairly well in Neoprene I haven't tried them in viton since they are not available in that material. Hub seal life seems to take on a life of its' own from my experience. Even with extreme care on installation using seal drivers etc and inspection the rubbing ring and wear surface leakage still can occur. By contrast doing the same and bunging in a seal on the roadside in less than ideal conditions results in a reliable repair lasting years! No correlation. I do believe the brand of oil used in the hub has something to do with it. Some are more foamy than others building up higher than acceptable hub pressures. I like using Shell when I can get it.
One thing I have observed is that flat towing the truck with a light duty diesel PU and barrelling down the road at a steady seventy will overheat the hubs and cause seal degredation.
I have installed the genuine Steyr seals and bearings when folk can afford them with very good results--in short no comebacks!
Then there's spark plugs. Bosch might be a favourite choice, but look at the label;Made in Germany OK , don't use Indian--unless you like missfires and bad starting! Mostly I use NGK these days.
Then there's brake linings. There are a number of slabs out there to make linings from. Problem is quality of the material is suspect being made in all sorts of places that don't work too well. I only use a material that is made in the USA and to mil spec. A bit spendy perhaps but worth it!
Problem with all this is cost. With the US $ in the doldrums prices of parts can get out of hand for many owner's budgets.
In many cases it ruffles too many feathers--- kind of like posting a lampoon on this forum!
Dennis
There are a number of observation I have noted that come immediately to mind.
The CR rear main seal is much harder in Neoprene and in Viton is "tongue in cheek" resembling the very soft original that works superbly well.
CR hub seals seem to work fairly well in Neoprene I haven't tried them in viton since they are not available in that material. Hub seal life seems to take on a life of its' own from my experience. Even with extreme care on installation using seal drivers etc and inspection the rubbing ring and wear surface leakage still can occur. By contrast doing the same and bunging in a seal on the roadside in less than ideal conditions results in a reliable repair lasting years! No correlation. I do believe the brand of oil used in the hub has something to do with it. Some are more foamy than others building up higher than acceptable hub pressures. I like using Shell when I can get it.
One thing I have observed is that flat towing the truck with a light duty diesel PU and barrelling down the road at a steady seventy will overheat the hubs and cause seal degredation.
I have installed the genuine Steyr seals and bearings when folk can afford them with very good results--in short no comebacks!
Then there's spark plugs. Bosch might be a favourite choice, but look at the label;Made in Germany OK , don't use Indian--unless you like missfires and bad starting! Mostly I use NGK these days.
Then there's brake linings. There are a number of slabs out there to make linings from. Problem is quality of the material is suspect being made in all sorts of places that don't work too well. I only use a material that is made in the USA and to mil spec. A bit spendy perhaps but worth it!
Problem with all this is cost. With the US $ in the doldrums prices of parts can get out of hand for many owner's budgets.
In many cases it ruffles too many feathers--- kind of like posting a lampoon on this forum!
Dennis
OOOps no customer bashing now
Sadly owners don't realize the bottom line cost of cutting corners. What might save a buck today could cost a fortune tomorrow.
I have heard the issues with bosch spark plugs outside the pinz community. I have had good results with the NGK spark plugs also.
As for oil I have been using valvoline oils in all my military and collectable vehicles for years with no oil related issues, good luck I guess.
I have heard the issues with bosch spark plugs outside the pinz community. I have had good results with the NGK spark plugs also.
As for oil I have been using valvoline oils in all my military and collectable vehicles for years with no oil related issues, good luck I guess.
Mike
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lindenengineering
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Mike
That's what I generally use in the shop Valvoline. However for a few bucks cheaper you can use the Napa brand/Carquest labels. Its the same stuff, just look on the back for Ashland oils. That's Valvoline you are just paying abit more for a blue container.
Power of marketing I suppose!
Take care
Dennis
That's what I generally use in the shop Valvoline. However for a few bucks cheaper you can use the Napa brand/Carquest labels. Its the same stuff, just look on the back for Ashland oils. That's Valvoline you are just paying abit more for a blue container.
Power of marketing I suppose!
Take care
Dennis
OOOps no customer bashing now