Epic bodge (starter motor mount)

spandit · Post by **spandit** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 2:16 pm

OK, not that epic, but after my starter motor mount completely disintegrated (and we're due to go on holiday in a week) I had to take the starter motor off as it was hanging down about 2 inches. My mount didn't have the nut plate fitted and try as I may, I couldn't get the top right bolt out anyway (the one that the nut plate should bolt to), so I made this:

This should do the same job as the nut plate by bolting through the other top bolt. It needed a little fettling/grinding to actually fit but it's in now and I did something similar with large washers on the bottom bolts:

The starter motor is now mounted back on the vehicle and seems pretty solid. Should still have a small amount of flex (although still not sure why it's needed when other vehicles don't do the same thing)

cronapress · Post by **cronapress** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 2:37 am

Spandit has raised a valid point. Why does the starter motor have to be mounted via a "flexible" mount ?? As said, others don't. I know the good folk at Steyr put a lot of thought into the design of the Pinz - but why this ?

Could some of you more learned guys out there explain ? It's not as if this component is in constant mesh and the bad vibes have to be damped.

Anything to do with a "soft start" ie. a rotating mass (starter rotor) meeting a stationary BIG mass (flywheel) ? Softening the "crunch" if you like.

As a bus pass weilding bloke, I thought I'd "done" with this education lark ! Obviously not.

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:16 am

So it does not vibrate apart due to engine vibration frequencies

spandit · Post by **spandit** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 4:09 am

I know they're not perhaps to be lauded for their engineering excellence, but Land Rovers rattle about and their starter motors don't fall apart. It's a pretty heavy duty Bosch unit.

By the way, I can't remember where all the earth straps etc. go as I forgot to take photos before I took the lot apart - could anyone help me with this?

cronapress · Post by **cronapress** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 4:18 am

It's "Be kind to Starter Motors Week" this week ! ha.ha. Thanks Jim.

The braided earth strap (I've only got one) on mine goes from the lower nut/stud that retains the starter motor to the nearest nut on the bell housing. Just in a short "U" jumpering across the joint.

cronapress · Post by **cronapress** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 4:59 am

Sorry Spandit. Just noticed the photo's again. You have removed the clutch slave cylinder (so you can get the trained white mice with mirrors in more easily ?) so there will be another braided earth strap. This one jumpers the body to the slave cyl. stud/nut that is nearest to the centre of vehicle.

One strap starter to clutch housing.
One strap slave cyl. to body.

Mike
712M
Ayrshire.

spandit · Post by **spandit** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:28 am

Thanks, Mike, just have to remember which point on the body the strap goes to (although without looking as it might still be fixed one end)

Robin

cronapress · Post by **cronapress** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:49 am

If you have taken the strap off the body it shouldn't be too difficult to spot were it came from.

From memory, the strap goes more or less vertically up to the body from the slave cyl. nut.

An ideal opportunity to get all earthing connections clean and bright. When done, brush on some Waxoyl or similar to the connections. One thing less to worry about in the future.

Cheers,
Mike.

spandit · Post by **spandit** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 5:15 am

Thanks again, Mike, she fired up OK yesterday without the starter falling off. Just topping up some oils then I'll take her for a bit of a run before we head off to France next Tuesday!

Profpinz · Post by **Profpinz** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 6:14 am

I learnt a long time ago that SDP do EVERYTHING engineering wise for a reason, so I'II be interested to hear the long term effectiveness/outcomes of this modification.

spandit · Post by **spandit** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 7:05 am

Peter,

If they'd got it right first time, they wouldn't have issued the mod involving the "nut plate" (712.1.09.022.2) - all my solution has done is use the other bolt. The starter motor still has the rubber mount in place, so can flex to absorb the initial torque, but is in less danger of falling out now. My failure to remove one of the bolts left me with little other option and this is a part that you can't buy new, I understand - would buying a 35 year old second-hand part really be a safe option?

I'd still like to know why SDP decided to mount the starter this way when no other car companies do the same (someone please prove me wrong because I've failed to find any)