THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Was your transmission already out? I just went through the tranny access hole in the bed.

6. With the small and large pins removed you can then remove the stop for the first and reverse gear. 7. With the first/reverse stop out you can now draw out the selector shaft.

8. Now that the selector shaft is out you can see the 2 seals which need replacing. The outer seal comes out fairly easily whereas the inner one not so much(I had to destroy the inner seal to get it out so I wont show pictures of that) 9. Now you can reinstall your new seals. 10. Next lube your selector shaft and reinsert lining up the holes in the shaft where you will need to reinstall the dowel pins. 11. Install the dowels with a small punch one at a time until level with the top edge of the shaft.

12. With the dowels back in you can now reinstall the first/reverse stop and reinstall the plastic stopper/dust plug. 13. Now just reattach the shift tower to the tranny with the 5 bolt, mount back on truck and fill with your favourite oil. Done

Post Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 6:43 pm

Re: tranny oil leak....

Was your transmission already out? I just went through the tranny access hole in the bed.

Yes I was doing other engine work so it was just easier for me to take it out.

I know it's older, but this post was very helpful to me in completing this repair. Well done. I was worried about the job, but the hardest thing was getting the older seals out, buggered both of them. Mine were a green color, wonder if original from factory?

No need to drop transmission. Although easier, plenty of room with the cover off.

Thanks everyone for these posts. Very helpful as I get ready to do this job too. One more question: Do I really need the base gasket or can I just use my favorite gasket making material - Right Stuff for this job? I use it for the valve covers and the wheel hubs. Unless the part is dependent on the depth of the gasket for spacing, I have found the gasket maker stuff to be easier to use and very effective. Thanks, Buzz

Buzz wrote:Thanks everyone for these posts. Very helpful as I get ready to do this job too. One more question: Do I really need the base gasket or can I just use my favorite gasket making material - Right Stuff for this job? I use it for the valve covers and the wheel hubs. Unless the part is dependent on the depth of the gasket for spacing, I have found the gasket maker stuff to be easier to use and very effective. Thanks, Buzz

the prob;em with the gasket maker stuff is that you need to clean the surfaces and reapply each time you do a job. using gaskets and sealant you can typically preform future maintenance such as valve adjustments without needing to replace the gasket / reseal each time. There are reasons the factories (with few exceptions) are still using gaskets.

I'll take that as a "yes"; but, you like gaskets better.

Not sure what type you are talking about, the paper/rubber rolls you can pick up at an auto-parts store? Or the liquid "gasket in a tube" type.

I know from other forms and doing motorcycle maintenance, they never recommend the liquid type. They will squeeze out if not done properly and drop into whatever your are trying to seal up. Not something I would want in a transmission for instance. I have seen this issue personally from previous owners and it can get messy.

I would not have any issue with cutting my own gasket in that application though.

Thanks, Texas. I'm sure I have some bulk gasket material laying around.