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the handbrake is lousy at the best of times

On the contrary, when it is working well, it really does work VERY well. Remember, because of the gearing in the hubs and diffs the E brake only sees 1/6th the torque that the wheel sees (the wheel has 6 times the braking torque that the e brake disks have on them).

I also vote for the e brake as the most likely culprit, I was just pointing out other possibilities for similar symptoms. Loosen the adjusting nut on the e brake linkage and give it some percussive tuning to see if it frees up. If not, you will have to pull the tailcone to work on the e brake but pulling the tailcone will also free the driveshaft since you are removing the e brake.

Is it possible for the output shaft of a t-case to lock up, without other symptoms such as the front output or propellor shaft input also locking up?

Not possible unless the transfer case is significantly hosed!

More walloping required, then!

spandit wrote:More walloping required, then!

or you may have to do the tests posted and then take it apart
Sometimes the big hammer does not always work

Sorry, got carried away - I used to own a Land Rover

Jimm391730 wrote:

the handbrake is lousy at the best of times

On the contrary, when it is working well, it really does work VERY well. Remember, because of the gearing in the hubs and diffs the E brake only sees 1/6th the torque that the wheel sees (the wheel has 6 times the braking torque that the e brake disks have on them).

I also vote for the e brake as the most likely culprit, I was just pointing out other possibilities for similar symptoms. Loosen the adjusting nut on the e brake linkage and give it some percussive tuning to see if it frees up. If not, you will have to pull the tailcone to work on the e brake but pulling the tailcone will also free the driveshaft since you are removing the e brake.

Is it possible for the output shaft of a t-case to lock up, without other symptoms such as the front output or propellor shaft input also locking up?

Not possible unless the transfer case is significantly hosed!

That was pretty much what I figured about the transfer case being the problem.

FWIW, I agree that the handbrake, when properly operating, works very well. Since his handbrake was previously marginal apparently, is it possible the discs there simply disintegrated and pieces have jammed up the works? I'd think things were just stuck in place from disuse.

I love all the references to pounding on things. You guys must be Norwegian descendants too, huh? When everything fails, try a bigger hammer? Yaaaa.....

Thor is my idol...

Ullr is my son. No, really, he is.

Poor kid got named by some crazy ski nut. (Did you know that you don't actually have to name your kid when you leave the hospital? My wife finally gave up after 10 months and signed the paper.)


Now, what ever happened to the truck with the locked up wheels??

oops, accidental post

Still locked up as I'm away on business!

OK, I'm back now.

Before I start unbolting everything, is there a specific place it's best to thump wi' a bluddy great 'ammer?

The propshaft (Cardon shaft) turns by hand so transfer box is in neutral so must be the E-brake as you call it. Might try putting some tension on by towing with another vehicle so I can tell when it releases (will chock the wheels to stop it going too far!)

I've never had this failure, so I can't predict whether having it under load would help or not. But generally, when there is pressure on gears and such in a drive train, it will tend to prevent things from unlocking. I think I'd try light pressure, if any.

The brake is located just aft of the rear differential and ahead of the pintle, generally where the e-brake lever is located on top of the central tube. That would be the walloping spot. I'd try from all angles and maybe wiggle the arm around while doing the walloping.

Well, I've undone the linkage and walloped the tie rod (after loosening the nut) but can't move the vehicle on my own - need to get someone to try towing it a bit. Hoping I won't have to dismantle things. Looking at the repair manual has given me a good idea of how the brake works. How much movement can one expect on the tie rod in normal operation?

I once owned an Aro 243 (Romanian troop carrier) which came with a brilliant manual. The manual stated that whenever anything goes wrong look for the simple solution, major problems are rare.

I also grew up working for a farmer who claimed that when something didn't work hit it with a hammer. If that doesn't work hit it again and keep repeating until it breaks. It won't fix it but you'll feel better and need a new part anyway.

This problem sounds like it requires some wrench time, lots of penetrating oil, patience, maybe some heat and a new part or two. BFFI (brut force and f ignorance) seldom works. If you want it too keep working, carefully dismantle, refurbish and rebuild. Same approach keep my 63 Series 2a Rover running better than I do at the same age.

Good luck.

PS If you are only worried about getting it inside right now, why not dolly it?

Because I don't have any dollies and they're expensive to buy for one move. It's in a barn just not in the right place in the barn

Try removing one rear wheel, possibly add some counterweight to the opposite front corner to keep it off the ground, and it should roll if not in 4x4 and no lockers engaged... The empty drum should be either just off the ground, or barely touching the ground if there is no weight in the rear of the truck. A little dragging of the drum won't hurt, if that happens (the drum will rotate in the opposite direction due to the differential action, but no big deal).