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Am I right in thinking that if the brake was freed I'd be able to turn one rear wheel if the other was on the floor? Would be an easy way of knowing it had popped free

Yes - as long as the transfer case was in neutral - but expect some drag still...

if the brake was freed I'd be able to turn one rear wheel if the other was on the floor?

Yes, but remember that there is about a 6:1 gear reduction between the brake and the wheel (or about a 3:1 reduction if one wheel is fixed on the ground) so it may be very hard to turn the wheel if the brake drags even a tiny bit. You might do better by lifting a wheel, putting the transfer case in low range, and (gently) try turning the exposed driveshaft by putting a prybar through the U joint. At least this way you get some increase in the force you apply due to the gear reduction in the transfer case. Try applying force in both directions. If the E brake is froze you won't be able to turn the driveshaft beyond the play in the gears. If you get continual rotation, you should also see the wheel rotate, too, at a slower speed.

If you need to move it in the barn there is always the old farm trip of using a jackall (4 or 5 foot bar with jack attached) and lifting one end of the truck by the center of the bumper and then push it sideways off the jack to walk it left or right. Be certain to chalk the other axle. It can also be used to move short distances backwards by jacking the rear and pushing backwards. (forwards would get tricky as the top of the jack will swing towards the truck and damage it if you lift the locked rear axle. This works but can be dangerous. One of those BFFI (brute force and f ignorance) moves. It also can be used a way of moving a stuck truck sideways when recovering.

Good luck

Clive

Well, after a lot of thumping I tried towing the beast forward using a Land Rover (the shame!). Still a 3-tonne paperweight so it's dismantlin' time, I fear. I'd have thought by tapping the actuator rod it might have moved but apparently not...

Will try those other methods if all else fails but need to get it into a bay as the barn has support pillars down each side.

I've been reluctant to suggest this, but if everything else has failed...

Maybe jack up the rear, place a few sheets of plywood under the rear wheels, and use a bunch of sections of pipe to roll the whole works on?

I've moved entire sheds by myself using this method and I used it to move a 1/2 ton wood stove around in my yard just last week. It's crude, but it works. If you're moving over rough ground, several planks under the rollers will fix it.

Thing is, it will need to be free at some stage. Will try the "turning the shaft with a crowbar" technique & see what happens

Stop mucking around and remove the tailcone! You have more time into writing posts here than the actual time needed to remove it. The front face of the tailcone is part of the braking surface…. If the it doesn’t free the wheels, your problem is probably in the T case, and you’d have to remove the tailcone anyway… you can move the Pinz around without the tailcone on.

And if you are still in need of moving the Pinz around in your yard, some wheel dollies would be cheaper that the possible damage you could be doing to your truck.

Just stop using brute force before you do make the Pinz into a paper weigh.

Wise words, I haven't had the time to do much in the workshop recently anyway hence all the posts but I think you're right, tail cone off it is!

It'll only take an hour or 2. Worse is lifting the body to let the tailcone/body mount free .... still not bad.

Just loosen the rear boy mounts till the last few threads, remove rear body mount bolt(24mm nut on top), lift body with jack, pull tail cone in pieces, end first. The discs have most likely rusted to the facings as is a common fault.

Jim, not entirely sure what you mean by "pull tail cone in pieces" but I have the repair manual & instructions someone wrote elsewhere so sure I'll figure it out eventually!

Robin,
The pintle hook comes off separately, and it's heavy. I think the rest of the housing is one piece, from memory (maybe not, see pic). Separate them for ease of handling.
Pic here: http://www.pinzgauer.com/parts.php?cat= ... view=03-30

Ah, I see, thanks! Might leave the pintle hook on (I've replaced mine with a swivelling NATO hitch) and hang it from the rear bumper to support the weight

Well, it's obvious we're not dealing with a Land Rover here. 40 year old vehicle and the bolts all undid without too much effort (apart from the one holding the rear cone to the body - forgot/didn't know the plate it screwed into wasn't fixed and should have been held with a spanner - got it undone anyway...).

Brake is pretty corroded, some TLC needed, I feel.