THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Take a look at that pinzgauer photo in the upper left. Some of you see a tan 712 with someone standing on the rack looking out over the mountains. I'm VERY curious about a rack like that. How much would one cost? What if we eliminated the exoskeleton from the front and just built the rack on the rear half. Any idea of that cost?

Next question would be a container that can hold my chairs =)

audiocontr wrote:Take a look at that pinzgauer photo in the upper left. Some of you see a tan 712 with someone standing on the rack looking out over the mountains. I'm VERY curious about a rack like that. How much would one cost? What if we eliminated the exoskeleton from the front and just built the rack on the rear half. Any idea of that cost?

Next question would be a container that can hold my chairs =)

You do know that the picture changes, that said I believe you are referring to the truck belonging to Ed “totaljoint” in Snohomish, WA

Made by FatFabrications.com
Andre Swanson, proprietor/fabricator/artist- on these forums.

It's a beautiful rack, tough as nails and powder coated to boot. I love it. Initially I got it to give the passengers some protection riding in the back. You could pick the 712 up by this thing (and I have done just that with a jack!). Roll the cab top back to enjoy the sun and your still protected from branches and falling rocks. Can't keep the kids off it, and a great place to put your mother-in-law. It's the best seat in the house for the parade whether your featured in it or just watching. I've used it as a base for awnings and ham antennas.

If you like sleeping high off the ground in bear country (priced car top tents lately?), want a portable hunting stand, transport kayaks, or canoes or just a landing strip for small planes, this works well. Recommended for loading cargo: teenage sons or good rotator cuffs.

Ed

If you dont mind me asking, what did it cost you?

Impossible to give you an individual figure on the cage as mine was just part of a larger rebuild over 3 years ago.
PM sent.

You had me at "tan, with a great rack!"

I've had so many folks asking about my rack on this thread, I've given up on answering individual questions.

I didn't want to clog up the forum with the details, but this is the only way to answer everyone:
-My rack was part of a extensive build 3 years ago with Fat Fabrications. I currently have no way to individualize it's cost.
-Yes, I would do it again.
-I don't notice any instability in turns, I don't feel top heavy (see construction notes below)
-It whistles slightly in a heavy cross wind, other wise no noise.
-Adds about 400 or so lbs (with the front bumper) to the rig.
-I can still roll up the sides, rear and cab top.

My apologies to those who's pictures I have plagiarized here, but I use them to make a point:

I just visited with one of our members who had a rack built very similar as described in the last post.
The bids on his rack varied by more than four fold (for the very same plans). He got a great deal by visiting some cage fabricator forums and contacting a few local shops.


Prices vary widely depending on what you want. Material (diameter/wall thickness), complexity of bends, paint or powder coat, expanded metal deck or wire mesh, front bumper included or not, underneath front foot guards, gas tank guards, etc...


Mine was attached utilizing existing mounting points only (rub rail rivit nuts, bumperette bolts and antenna mount on front roll bar), no new holes. The front upright supports and bumper are designed to hold the folded windshield, yet not extend out the sides.


The bumper is integral (minimal joints) to the top for strength. The rear ladder is curved around the back corners to match the rear bumper and use it as the first step.


No matter how the Pinz twists on rocks or bumps, the cage is solid and doesn't move or shake. Though the diameter of all pipe is the same, it has thicker walled pipe on the lower structural cargo/ protective portion, but thinner up top to keep the C.G. low. The side ladder is tapered for aesthetics and minimizing upper mass. I have had 4 teenage boys riding up there with camping cargo- no sags. Holds a tent nicely.

When I planed mine, I searched the web for pictures/videos of every cage I could find.

I then contacted some of the owners to ask what they did and didn't like. I even had one retired but quite experienced NASCAR roll cage fabricator offer to do mine for material costs only, since he liked the truck! Such deals are out there, you just have to look.

I went with Fat Fab since there were other things I wanted done on the truck, and Andre was close to my truck's location, had done many of these builds before, and came highlyrecommended. He gave me solid suggestions on the practicality of the rack.

I would reccomend you contact Andre Swanson on this forum (FatFabrications.com) to get a bid for your requirements. He can also give you some ideas of do's and don'ts of a cage.
Hope this answers the questions.
Ed

Thank you for posting that assortment of racks- It really has me thinking.

Mac,

Here's another assortment of racks to choose from: http://www.forthecraic.net/flash/boobtest.swf



I find them inspirational too.

undysworld wrote:Mac,

Here's another assortment of racks to choose from: http://www.forthecraic.net/flash/boobtest.swf



I find them inspirational too.

Yes indeed. I'm thinking of adding a pair on either side of my winch. You know...for water crossings.

Here's a link to some photos of the rack that Andre Swanson built for me for my previous 710M.

https://picasaweb.google.com/david.k.sm ... feat=email#

Lovin' the racks... and the quiz. I'm currently in the design phase for my future rack and my ARB Simpson 3 is in the mail. The rub rail attachment seems to be a common solution and I'm surely headed that direction. Has anyone switched out the rivit nuts for "beefier" hardware? I have zero experience with the rivit nuts so I think it best to ask if anyone had an opinion on this. The diameter is relatively large so I would anticipate a high shearing strength, but thought I would ask.
Also, has anyone built a rack and then regretted making it to close to the rear cover causing contact (noise/damage) at hwy speed? I want to make it close to preserve the lines of the Pinz, but what's too close?
Thanks for the help.

no noise problems even with the front overhead rack I had, at least none louder than the pinz standard noises. I run with the canvas rolled back all the time and could not pick up any noise from the rack even with gear on it.

There have been a couple of guys here that have cut small slots in the rear of the pinz to accommodate a piece of 1/4 x 2 metal to be slid into the body tube. the plate was either tapped to accept bolts at the original location or nuts welded to the back side of the plate. A lot of work considering I am still using the rivnuts and have beat the living h3ll out of mine with no ill effects. I have even supported the truck by the rails when doing some service.

I really enjoy, or I should say my passengers really enjoy, the overhead rack. It keeps some of the gear out from under foot. I tend to drive my pinz offroad and having a heavy rack was a MAJOR consideration to me. I feel that any more than a couple hundred pounds total (rack weight and cargo) is all that can be safely managed that high. The flip side is that a beefy rack will help protect things when the added top weight puts you on your side. Oh the dilema:)

Enjoying this thread as well. I have a large rack on my 712 made of 1x1 tube, but it does not have a deck or floor.

Those of you who have decking on yours, what did you use or what would you recommend?

thanks

The rack that Andre fabricated for me was strong enough and designed to hold several people and gear when circumstances required. I mounted it on the front and rear rollover bars. I never noticed any COG issues but it certainly added weight and it limited what trails I was able to traverse given the added height.