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Ok,ok, I know. Pay attention to how it comes part.
On the starter drive, when putting it together is it drive,brass spacer/clip retainer, clip, three spacers?
The three spacers don't seem to have a function there but don't fit any farther towards the drive.
I feel like an idiot but would rather ask the question than do a job twice.

Don't know if this will help http://www.pinzgauer.com/parts.php?cat= ... view=09-31

That helped immensely . Also means I had three spacers I didn't need. Thanks for the help.

Ditchdigger wrote:That helped immensely . Also means I had three spacers I didn't need. Thanks for the help.

If the spacers came out I suspect they were all needed, my guess is that multiple spacers were used in place of one thicker spacer.

The spacers came out (the best I can tell) off the end of the shaft between the Clip and the nose cone. It looked like they polished up the shaft but I could see no propose for them then second guessed myself.

Not that I'm an expert but, they could be to limit the engagement travel into the flywheel which I believe also determines when and how hard the motor relay contacts hit. I've had starters that bent the motor relay contacts to the point that the starter became intermittent.

Don't know if there has ever been any work done to this starter but, I have had (recently) issues with it not fully engaging on startup.
When I stop pushing the button and do a second attempt, everything is fine and it will fully engage and start. As soon as I hear that
it is not going to start, I release the button. No real sound of grinding. It is one of those things that will not happen if I take it to a mechanic, as
it only happens when sitting for a few days and it is below 40 degrees in the garage.

Now, I am guessing about the fully engaging part as it has not happened in the 6 years of ownership. Only recently, and it is winter after all, at least here.
Ideas anyone?

Morris

I have had (recently) issues with it not fully engaging on startup

If the motor seems to spin somewhateasily with no engine crank, the starter bendix is going bad. The bendix is a one way clutch that allows the engine to spin faster than the starter so a quickly starting engine does not overspeed the starter if it is still engaged. Problem is that as they wear then the do not always grab enough that the starter will turn the engine; the starter turns but the torque does not get transfered to the pinion.

It will get worse. Eventually I had to try 1-2 dozen times to get it to catch and crank the engine; this is very bad in traffic or on off-camber uphill climbs after you stall it...

Thanks.

Is it time to get EI's new and improved starter? I have seen posts about it and rather than wait till the whole thing goes to crap I would rather
get a good one and install it. Right now I have the funds...later who knows...!

Will the flywheel get munged up because of this?

I just installed EI's Pinz starter and can't say enough good things about it. It spins the engine faster which in turn makes it catch quicker.

Installation wasn't too bad - actually taking the old one out was a bit tough but putting in the new one was easy. I went ahead and replaced the rubber mount at the same time since it was showing a bit of age. If you also decide to add the steel retainer bracket (yes, it's overkill) you'll also need a couple of new bolts as shown in the parts book.

Thanks Paul,

Last time I looked at mine (I think) the connections were held on with nuts on shafts. Your pics look to be a bit different.
Were there some modifications to be made to the connections to make it work?

There is a main stud with a nut hidden under that rubber boot. I had to loosen up the wiring harness from under one of the retaining clips so it would reach the starter but no mods necessary. The new starter comes with a short length of wire with a special plug on the end to connect to the starter. The other end of the wire just needs to be spliced to the existing black wire that went to the old starter solenoid.