THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

The C303 TGBII arrived from California last week. I drove it around this weekend and now I have a few questions.

1: After a search here and on the web, it appears that the best fuel to use is 93 Octane with a lead additive. However, I see a "re-body" discussion in a few places. There is talk that maybe galvanized bodies received a new motor and there are hardened valve seats already in there? What to do? Always run the lead and 93 until I eventually pull the head and have new seats fitted?

2: Who can do that hardened-seat machine work in the States for a B30?
3: After my C303 runs and is at operating temp, when I shut it off, it runs (dieseling?) for 3 seconds. Is that common? Always does it, always for a predictable period of time-
4: When cold, starts within one second. When warm, takes 10 seconds.
5: I have the 123 distributor (in a box). How hard is that going to be to install scale: 1-10?

WHAT an attention-getter! People on the road are awestruck!
THANKS! ! ! !

Congratulations on the new addition to your family!

Cheers,
Greg

Congrats
Can't wait for mine to show up from the UK

Body updates have nothing to do with motors, other than likely getting a good service/inspection at the time or refurb'ing. I haven't seen a brand new motor in any 303 I have looked at in Sweden, though I'm sure it exists in some cases.

Any remotely decent engine machine shop can do the seats, though I'd just use a lead substitute every other fill-up or so instead of bothering with that. You can also use 89/90 or an octane booster added to 87. 93 isn't necessary in my experience and is just a waste of money, just like it is in any car that isn't designed for higher octane fuels.

No, dieseling is not common. Others here can better comment on the best fix (as I'm no engine specialist!) but it's usually due to timing issues, carbon build up, carbs that need rebuilt and/or running too hot.

If you can do basic engine maintenance, the 123 isn't going to be too tough but if you can't set timing properly, pay someone to do it or pay Jim by the hour for a phone consultation.

VinceAtReal4x4s wrote: If you can do basic engine maintenance, the 123 isn't going to be too tough but if you can't set timing properly, pay someone to do it or pay Jim by the hour for a phone consultation.

Ok, after reading the instructions, the only thing I am concerned with is the requirement for a 6V/12V lead from the coil. Everything is 24V under the 'hood' from what I gather. I DO have a 12 volt converter (and 2-12volt batteries of course), but can I just use what already exists on the coil?

I was going to swap out the distro today.

Thanks!