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been working on a little hesitation, and now the problem got worse!, i replaced rotor, cap, wires, spark plugs, carb accel pump,cleaned carbs,,set timming, valve clereance,balance carbs, point gap,, i just sprayed the outside of carburators with carb cleaner to see if there any leaks and no change on RPM....it idles just fine, but when i give gas doesnt rev up!.i uploaded a video, please take a look maybe you can tell what else should i look for... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gquyHmH7 ... ature=plcp

It always comes down to three variables: 1. mechanical, 2. electrical, 3. fuel. Can you eliminate ALL possibilities in one or more of these systems? If not, it's still a shot in the dark. For example, I had this symptom years ago, and it became worse even after I started checking and going through the systems. I first eliminated the electrical since the system is so simple (solenoids, wiring, coil, spark etc.) I then went to mechanical: fuel pump, linkage. When I went to fuel, it was obvious that I had enough at idle but not under load. I replaced the fuel pump and no change. I checked the tank and lines for obstructions and no change. Then, I remembered my early days with VW's with similar symptoms. The fuel lines are prone to cracking at the ends over time, and this sucks in too much air with the gas and the carbs are starved under load. I cut off about an inch from the fuel pump supply line and the pump to carb line and VOLLA!, all was well. An electrician friend taught me a good lesson that has served me well in such situations over time. "Always look for horses before looking for Zebras, as there are many more horses in the world than Zebras" Sometimes, its the little parts. Other times, it is a combination of two things and thats more difficult to troubleshoot. I now always leave my new hoses longer than needed, so I can cut off an inch whenever I have the same symptom, which has happened twice. Try this and good luck.
Michael

Really tough to say, especially after you did so much. Did you take it in steps or do all that you listed in one session? What was the last thing you did?

last thing i did today check valve clereance, cap rotor and new wires, recheck carb sync...

I am limited in experience, but the both times I experienced symptoms like you describe, it was a fuel solenoid that came loose, and the second was moisture in the cap...which you have eliminated with a new cap....

My first thoughts:

• 1. Check timing. Might be too retarded.
  2. Check voltage at + side of coil; expect to see about 17 volts, give or take a volt (possibly 2) referenced to the chassis.
  3. Check accelerator pump linkage; I believe it should go into the innermost hole, so the pump has the greatest motion.

Reasons are (in order): too retarded has lousy initial response, in my experience. Weak spark tends to be quenched with greater fuel/air mixture when you open the throttle. And while the accelerator pump improves the initial response, it doesn't do much after a few revolutions (and your video shows it bogged for quite a while while the throttle is opened) but it would be good to check as you've changed them.

These should be very quick and easy to check.

I had a similar problem it turned out to be red death in my fuel tank. Big sheets of cover up my fuel intake then fall off. It's a real pain.

well, thanks for your comments, it all came down to be the MOLEX CONNECTOR, the connector near the oil cooler, yes that damn conecctor was loose or doing a bad connection, i locked myself in the garage ,lights out, and start revving the engine(it was like a suicide ),then i saw a spark jump in that connector, fix that loose connector and VOILA!!!!!!!!! incredible how a simple wire gave me such a hard time!

waterdog wrote:...i locked myself in the garage ,lights out, and start revving the engine(it was like a suicide ),then i saw a spark jump in that connector, fix that loose connector and VOILA!!!!!!!!! ...

I like your troubleshooting technique!!