THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Its time to beat this dead horse again.

http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/usa-mad ... eater.html

840 watts 14,028 btu 35amps.

Is this too much draw on electrical system? I have read that just to insulate exchanger and tubing would greatly improve things, but I saw this and thought I would ask. Has its own power, so could do away with stock blower. 3 vents, windshield and one to each foot well. Any thoughts? Brian

The recent thread on this topic covered all the issues.

Garry

People keep asking, and I'll keep answering without just repeating
something I've read or heard ... I actually have one. The truth
is that it's a pretty quiet, effective heater. (I have the 18,000 BTU
model with 2 outlets) but, it draws a lot of power. If you run a
14,000 BTU heater, you are drawing about 35 Amps. The output
on the alternator is 35 Amps. (All at 24V) Just be aware that while
you are using the heater, you are not charging the batteries at all. In
other words, if you run lights, stereo, etc., it's just like running them
off the battery with the engine off. If you do it for too long, you'll run
the battery down to 0 charge and eventually damage the battery.

Oh, and it comes with a small riostat that you can use to modulate
the output, so it doesn't need to be on high all the time. Use heavy
gauge wiring, and be sure the fuse supplied is adequate.

So, you can do it, but be sure you use it appropriately. If you plan to
use the heater for camping (while sleeping in back) or for long periods
of time while the engine is not running, consider the expense of the
esperbacher because it might fit the needs better.

Hello. I guess I asked wrong. You answered what I meant to ask. The output of alternator is what I was after and describing what I wanted it for I thought would tell me if I was going to hurt the truck.
I am interested how you installed it. Did you put heater where original blower is or somewhere else? Did you use existing ductwork or add your own?
I think it would be best to have one vent to windows and other to feet. A picture or so would be of interest. Thank you. Brian.

I wired it right behind the driver, but didn't bother with tons of ductwork.
The existing heat can handle defrost function. I just vented it upward.
(That plate to the right is a mil-spec 24V-12V converter. Runs the stereo
and power outlets) It's n to the prettiest heater ever, but it works.

If you run a 14,000 BTU heater, you are drawing about 35 Amps

Sorry, you are grossly wrong (or have been grossly mislead). 14000 BTUs (in one hour) is the same as 4103 watts per hour. That's 146 AMPS from 28 volts (and I'm being generous here, you'd never stay a 28 volts). At 35 amps you might get, at best 3300 BTU. Google the conversion factor to see for yourself.

Think of it this way: You know those measly little 1500 watt heaters you can buy for your house? Well, the best you can get from the 35A Pinz alternator is 980 watts and that doesn't include ignition, lights, blower, etc. so when all is done you might get half of the heat of those little heaters. This doesn't mean you can't get some heat electrically, but I wouldn't bother unless it was for electric seats or clothing. Trying to electrically heat air to heat you is a really a losing proposition.

WeBasto

Why is it you guys just want to argue????

READ the chart. http://www.24voltproducts.com

Yes, manufacturers do exaggerate sometimes, but those are
pretty close, I'm sure.

Why is it you guys just want to argue????

READ the chart. http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/usa-mad ... eater.html

Yes, manufacturers do exaggerate sometimes, but those are
pretty close, I'm sure. And I'm sure you posted your response
based on personal experience?? Too many people are parroting
what they see somewhere else, and not from experience. I might
not have the experience of many people on the board, but I have
one of these heaters. I've put it on the bench and tested it. I've
actually installed it. I know how it heats my truck. That's more than
most can say. (and no, I'm not going to debate theoretical efficiency)

I'm not praising it over esperbacher or webasto either. They both
have their uses. Like I said, if he's camping or running it for long
periods of time, he might prefer the other.

Note: no one asked him what his uses are. They just claim that theirs is
best. Doesn't that seem weird? Wouldn't what's "best" depend on what
he needs?

Putting forth another opinion is not an argument. It appears that your opinion is self sustaining and no other viewpoint has validity unless it agrees with yours.

I am not familiar with the Pinz - can a larger alternator be installed? Certainly my Haflinger needs more power and I am looking at installing a secondary alternator for trips where more electrical power is needed.

My Landrover 101 has a 90 amp 24v alternator so would run of those electric heaters no issue - but then I have water as a coolant so have a decent heater in the cab.

Garry

Pinz710m2 wrote:Why is it you guys just want to argue????

READ the chart. http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/usa-mad ... eater.html

Yes, manufacturers do exaggerate sometimes, but those are
pretty close, I'm sure. And I'm sure you posted your response
based on personal experience??

First off, it's great that you're pleased with your heater, and others certainly appreciate the knowledge. However...

I don't know Jimm personally, but I know enough about auto electrics to respect his knowledge, based on his past posts. IIRC, he's an EE. No offense, but I'm inclined to believe that his math is correct. IMHO, Jimm's sort of the electric guru here. If you're not, you might learn something from him.

I also did the math. 14,000 btu / hr requires 4103 watts. Divide that wattage by 28 (volts) gives you 146 amps. If you divide it at 24, it's 170 amps. If it's running at 14,000 btu, you're pulling over 35a for sure.

He didn't say you wouldn't get any heat from it, and I believe you when you say that you are satisfied with the performance of the unit you own. But if he happens to be correct, what's wrong with him pointing out an error? Why do you accuse him of being argumentative? In the interest of providing information for others, shouldn't he be pointing it out? That's kind of the point of the technical part of this forum.

Wow. I'll go back to my original comment about this forum. WTF?

You guys are all a bunch of assholes. I've tried to make my comments
productive, but all you assholes want to do is argue about minutia. WTF?
Jim was DEAD F-ing WRONG in his approach to calling me out and
telling me how wrong I was. He might be a freakin' EE genius, but you don't
call someone out and expect them not to defend themselves ... especially
when they are correct. It would have been much more productive if Jim
were to ASK ... ,"doesn't the math on that show a higher power requirement
than 35 Amps?"

You guys are all socially inept and frankly, completely offensive, and I have
no doubt that you will try to twist what I've said and misunderstand it.

Stop spending your lives on-line and go get some etiquette training. You need it.

Now, I guarantee you, I will try to never post again.

Hopefully everyone on both sides are better off with this thread being locked and one account being permanently deactivated (a VERY rare occurrence).

Thanks.