Wheel Drive Puller

kc4mne · Post by **kc4mne** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 9:24 pm

Hello does anybody have a design for a "homebuilt" wheel drive puller to split axles and install non-split boots?

Hate to spen $300.00 for the OEM unit.

Manny

springhill · Post by **springhill** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 9:54 pm

I use the factory jack. I haven't had a problem, but you could potentially bust something. I just pump the jack very slowly. Most of the time it pushes right off.

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 11:26 pm

$65 bucks buys you a small porta power at Harbour frieght.
I have used several types of tools and love the porta power the best, of course you have to be careful

I use a wide chisel for the wedge. I break it loose on one side, then move it to the other side to finish the removal process

kc4mne · Post by **kc4mne** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 8:33 pm

Well 65.00 did not buy me a porta power at Harbour Freight, but 99.00 did for a 4 ton model.

It worked like a champ, problably better and faster than the factory tool.

Anyways, the service book talks about Loctite 270 on the mating surface. How much do I use? There is a lot of mating surface.

Also is the whell drive installed by simply "pounding" it into place?
It appears to me that the porta power or factory tool cannot "press" the wheel drive back in.

Forward rear axle of my 712 has a lot of oil on both sides inside the boots so I am also replacing the huge o ring and the boot ring flange that comes with the seal for the "ball" surface.

Thanks for the help

Manny

PinzEOD · Post by **PinzEOD** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:32 pm

I only used a little loctite on both my repairs (2 different axles). They slide together most of the way fairly easily as long as you have a wedge in the split. The last inch or so I knocked in with a wood block and a dead blow hammer. One repair was for a snapped axle shaft, the other was the result of the outer housing twisting a full 270 degrees.