Hi All
I took my Pinz out last weekend and a problem has developed and I would appreciate anyone’s insight as it has got me stumped.
The problem is that it has lost a lot of its torque. It started with a loss of pulling power with spluttering/missing & pinging when put under a constant load (driving up a beach). It was fine on the rock hard sand but as soon as I drove into soft sand even stuff that was only 1 inch deep it just scrubbed all of the power and the missing started. It got progressively worse until it would only pull 20 kph in low range. The confusing thing is that if I stopped and let the engine rest for 10 mins when I started again it ran fine for 5mins until the missing/spluttering & pinging started again. Also when driven off of the sand and the constant drag of the sand was removed the spluttering was much less apparent and it ran much better.
I checked the plugs & points while I was out & since getting home I have put a new set of points in and checked my timing (which was a bit out) and it is still doing it. But it still runs ok for a few minutes or so before it starts again.
Has anyone got any ideas?
Cheers
Sam
Spluttering & Loss of Torque
Moderator: TechMOGogy
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Twin Pinzies
- Posts: 545
- Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 1:33 pm
- Location: San Juan Mountains, CO
Ah the dreaded sputtering mystery problem! I have had similar problems with all three of mine. One of them gets the sputters after long descents- only to clear itself up only after driving around on the flats for a while.? One will occasionally sputter and die on uphill climbs- only to run great again after a 5 minute rest.? One will idle perfectly and sputter out only under sudden, hard acceleration.?
Keep in mind that I am a bit anal when it comes to the mechanical shape of my rigs. They are either doing tours or they are in the shop getting wrenched on. Usually just preventative maintenance. Nobody has solved any of the sputter problems after repeated attempts from different mechanics....?
Welcome to the joys of Pinzy ownership!
Keep in mind that I am a bit anal when it comes to the mechanical shape of my rigs. They are either doing tours or they are in the shop getting wrenched on. Usually just preventative maintenance. Nobody has solved any of the sputter problems after repeated attempts from different mechanics....?
Welcome to the joys of Pinzy ownership!
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michaelh712
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 3:14 pm
Sam,
I had a similar problem after my truck was warm but only under load. It would only show symptoms after about eight miles of driving, but usually not downhill. It seemed to be fuel related so I started replacing fuel hose that looked old. This helped some, but still no cure.
Mine turned out to be fuel pump related. It seemed that once warm, small micro cracks in the pump diaphram slowed the flow. Mine cleared up immediately after a simple rebuild, but this was hard to diagnose. It's nice when we find the "cure". Good luck!
I had a similar problem after my truck was warm but only under load. It would only show symptoms after about eight miles of driving, but usually not downhill. It seemed to be fuel related so I started replacing fuel hose that looked old. This helped some, but still no cure.
Mine turned out to be fuel pump related. It seemed that once warm, small micro cracks in the pump diaphram slowed the flow. Mine cleared up immediately after a simple rebuild, but this was hard to diagnose. It's nice when we find the "cure". Good luck!
Dreaded Splutter
Thanks Guys
I have ordered a Pertronix ignition conversion and that is my first test as I have read here that points are often a bit of an issue. I am going to see if that makes any difference & after that fuel pump. I don’t know if it is anything to do with the engine cooling down as I only need to stop for 5 minutes and it improves and I don’t think that my engine will get any cooler in such a short time? If anything I would have thought it would have got hotter as there was no airflow over the heads.
I am in it for the long haul so I will work it out in the end and I will let you know when I do. I will probably have some more questions so you will probably be hearing from me soon.
Cheers
Sam
I have ordered a Pertronix ignition conversion and that is my first test as I have read here that points are often a bit of an issue. I am going to see if that makes any difference & after that fuel pump. I don’t know if it is anything to do with the engine cooling down as I only need to stop for 5 minutes and it improves and I don’t think that my engine will get any cooler in such a short time? If anything I would have thought it would have got hotter as there was no airflow over the heads.
I am in it for the long haul so I will work it out in the end and I will let you know when I do. I will probably have some more questions so you will probably be hearing from me soon.
Cheers
Sam
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David Dunn
- Posts: 2279
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:08 pm
- Location: Arcadia, CA
Check your voltage at the coil. overvoltage from a bad ballast resistor or regulator can cause it to breakdown internally from overheating..... after sitting for a while, they cool and run fine until they overheat again.
If you install a Pertronix and you have too high of voltage, you'll fry it before ever start the truck.
If you install a Pertronix and you have too high of voltage, you'll fry it before ever start the truck.
.
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .
ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .
ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
Can anyone suggest what the voltage should be. I have checked mine and it reads somehow 20 volts. It seems a bit high for me, but I have no reference.
Needles to say that I have sort of similar problems. Engine works fine unless I want more load (faster or uphill). Then it cuts off and recovers at idle. For now I am about to change fuel pump, but I am leaving the coil failure option open.
Roman
Needles to say that I have sort of similar problems. Engine works fine unless I want more load (faster or uphill). Then it cuts off and recovers at idle. For now I am about to change fuel pump, but I am leaving the coil failure option open.
Roman
1976- 710 M + 1976- 710MS
hey sam
you said sand were you in the water ...did you check your fan for broken blades slow load will increase heat and cause detonation once your moving faster forward air would take over the fan ??? i know it has been a while but i dont see an update
It is only air and fuel ...For every 1 lb boost will gain you 10 % displacement
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lindenengineering
- Posts: 715
- Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2004 6:14 pm
- Location: Golden Colorado USA
- Contact:
Just read this. Spluttering.
For the majority of cases spluttering of the engine is most likely caused by bad floats. There are two elements that are paramount. Since the float is in two sections the pivots get worn where they are rolled on the central pivot pin..The float itself drifts sideways in the fuel and drags/binds upon the carburetor body wall. In either case flooding will occur and/or starvation depending upon what condition is present internally.
The other problems are twisted floats that will control fuel levels on a flat condition but will go out of whack on gradients.
There is also a problem that I am seeing nowadays with wear on the abutment flapper plate/pad where it drops down on the two float sections. The float level valve contacts this flapper plate if you are unsure of what I refer to.
Wear that exists on the contact patch will upset the float levels causing float level problems in all conditions. Easily overlooked but very important nonetheless.
Dennis
For the majority of cases spluttering of the engine is most likely caused by bad floats. There are two elements that are paramount. Since the float is in two sections the pivots get worn where they are rolled on the central pivot pin..The float itself drifts sideways in the fuel and drags/binds upon the carburetor body wall. In either case flooding will occur and/or starvation depending upon what condition is present internally.
The other problems are twisted floats that will control fuel levels on a flat condition but will go out of whack on gradients.
There is also a problem that I am seeing nowadays with wear on the abutment flapper plate/pad where it drops down on the two float sections. The float level valve contacts this flapper plate if you are unsure of what I refer to.
Wear that exists on the contact patch will upset the float levels causing float level problems in all conditions. Easily overlooked but very important nonetheless.
Dennis
OOOps no customer bashing now
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wwcommando
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 5:16 pm
- Location: Golden Valley, AZ
I had the same problem after a long decent to the highway, when I pulled onto the blacktop no power, I pulled over, swapped plugs real quick, the engine cooled down during that time, I started out, no power, then it took off and did 55 mph over 120 miles to home. I got looking around the next day and found the carbs were a little loose, so I pulled them off, tightened the bottom mounting screws, remounted them and it runs good now. You might want to check this before getting any deeper.
Jeff
Voltage @ the coil should be not more then 21.3 Volts @ 2.500 RPM. If it reads higher, your ballast resistor is not operating properly.Roman wrote:Can anyone suggest what the voltage should be. I have checked mine and it reads somehow 20 volts. It seems a bit high for me, but I have no reference.
Roman
Regards,
Jacques