I don't think this is to technical of a job, but I figured I would snap some pics of my replacement process. I am using the Doetsch shocks from EI.
Front of the truck chalked and the rear lifted onto jack stands.
Wheels removed.
I went with the breaker bar and 24MM impact socket and the bolt came free without issue. I then used an e-impact gun to speed up the removal.
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Shock Replacement
Shock Replacement
Last edited by berger on Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Ottawa, Canada
1974 710M
2007 2WD Ural Patrol
1974 710M
2007 2WD Ural Patrol
Re: Shock Replacement
Con't
I then did the same for the top bolt, using the breaker bar and 24MM box wrench.
The threads on all the bolts were in great shape. I used brake cleaner and a brush to clean them up.
Comparison.
Reinstallation was quite easy. 100ftlbs as per EI. I used any-seize on the threads before re-install.

Front to follow shortly.
Sent from my Mobile
I then did the same for the top bolt, using the breaker bar and 24MM box wrench.
The threads on all the bolts were in great shape. I used brake cleaner and a brush to clean them up.
Comparison.
Reinstallation was quite easy. 100ftlbs as per EI. I used any-seize on the threads before re-install.

Front to follow shortly.
Sent from my Mobile
Last edited by berger on Thu Jun 13, 2013 9:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ottawa, Canada
1974 710M
2007 2WD Ural Patrol
1974 710M
2007 2WD Ural Patrol
Re: Shock Replacement
Ok, now for the front shocks....
The first steps involve the removal of the seats and doghouse to get to the front, upper bolts. You will also need to remove the coil, loosen and move the noise suppressor in order to pull the bolt out on the PS, and remove the metal cowl in front of the fan housing to get to the DS nut.
Cowl off:
Coil removed from mount:
I loosened and removed the upper mount bolts before I jacked the truck because it was easier to work this way.
Breaker bar and box wrench on DS bolt. You can see why the cowl must be removed to get the box wrench in there.
Box wrench and socket on the PS. I had to ditch the impact socket here, as it was too long.
The first steps involve the removal of the seats and doghouse to get to the front, upper bolts. You will also need to remove the coil, loosen and move the noise suppressor in order to pull the bolt out on the PS, and remove the metal cowl in front of the fan housing to get to the DS nut.
Cowl off:
Coil removed from mount:
I loosened and removed the upper mount bolts before I jacked the truck because it was easier to work this way.
Breaker bar and box wrench on DS bolt. You can see why the cowl must be removed to get the box wrench in there.
Box wrench and socket on the PS. I had to ditch the impact socket here, as it was too long.
Last edited by berger on Thu Jun 13, 2013 9:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ottawa, Canada
1974 710M
2007 2WD Ural Patrol
1974 710M
2007 2WD Ural Patrol
Re: Shock Replacement
Con't
Once the top bolts were out, I was able to use a breaker bar and smaller 24MM socket to remove the lower bolt.
Once this was done, I jacked up the truck. This isn't really necessary, if you have a pit of some kind, but it is even easier with wheels off the truck.
It is also a good time to adjust and clean the drums.
Next, wiggle the old shocks out of the upper mount hole. It takes some patience, but it will come.
Once removed, I cleaned up the old bolts and removed all the gunk. If your bolts are bent or damaged, now is the time to replace them. Mine were in excellent shape. Before you start the install, make sure your upper bolts can be inserted through the eye and spacer in the new shock. Mine did not, much to my....well....annoyance.
Thanks to a tip from Morris, I went ahead and removed the spacers from the OEM shocks and inserted them into the new ones. This takes patience and lubrication.
If you don't have a press, lube up the spacer and rubber, place the old shock in a vice, and use a socket and mallet to drive the old spacer out of the eye.
Once out, I used some scotch brite pads to take of the grime and rough surface on the OEM spacer.
Sent from my Mobile
Once the top bolts were out, I was able to use a breaker bar and smaller 24MM socket to remove the lower bolt.
Once this was done, I jacked up the truck. This isn't really necessary, if you have a pit of some kind, but it is even easier with wheels off the truck.
It is also a good time to adjust and clean the drums.
Next, wiggle the old shocks out of the upper mount hole. It takes some patience, but it will come.
Once removed, I cleaned up the old bolts and removed all the gunk. If your bolts are bent or damaged, now is the time to replace them. Mine were in excellent shape. Before you start the install, make sure your upper bolts can be inserted through the eye and spacer in the new shock. Mine did not, much to my....well....annoyance.

Thanks to a tip from Morris, I went ahead and removed the spacers from the OEM shocks and inserted them into the new ones. This takes patience and lubrication.
If you don't have a press, lube up the spacer and rubber, place the old shock in a vice, and use a socket and mallet to drive the old spacer out of the eye.
Once out, I used some scotch brite pads to take of the grime and rough surface on the OEM spacer.
Sent from my Mobile
Last edited by berger on Thu Jun 13, 2013 9:26 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Ottawa, Canada
1974 710M
2007 2WD Ural Patrol
1974 710M
2007 2WD Ural Patrol
Re: Shock Replacement
Con't
It took some muscle to get the old spacer started into the rubber eye on the new shock, but silicone lube helped here. Once started, I used a rubber mallet to drive the spacer down so that one end was flush.
This was the hardest part of the whole job!
Now reinstall the shocks. I found the easiest way to insert the upper portion of the shock was to twist the head 180DEG, then twist it back from inside the truck. Slip the upper bolt through the eye and screw on the nut. Remember to use some grease on the bolt shank to ease insertion. Also use anti-seize on the threads. Torque both bolts to 100ftlbs and reinstall everything that was removed.
Done!
It took some muscle to get the old spacer started into the rubber eye on the new shock, but silicone lube helped here. Once started, I used a rubber mallet to drive the spacer down so that one end was flush.
This was the hardest part of the whole job!
Now reinstall the shocks. I found the easiest way to insert the upper portion of the shock was to twist the head 180DEG, then twist it back from inside the truck. Slip the upper bolt through the eye and screw on the nut. Remember to use some grease on the bolt shank to ease insertion. Also use anti-seize on the threads. Torque both bolts to 100ftlbs and reinstall everything that was removed.
Done!
Ottawa, Canada
1974 710M
2007 2WD Ural Patrol
1974 710M
2007 2WD Ural Patrol