differential sticking
differential sticking
Hello All. I finally found a good 710M within my budget, there is only 1 doubt. I did a test drive on asphalt and tried the differentials. The front worked well. It took a while before the light went out, but that is normal on asphalt. The rear differential took longer to go out, so I tested that again. The second time the light did not go out when I pulled the lever up again and when I pulled the lever down again it did not stay in its lowest position, but slowly bounced back up. What could be the problem and what can I expect? Thank you very much for your insights.
Re: differential sticking
That's normal behavior. If you engage a locker, the hydraulic system is "charged" so to speak.
The slave is extended and full of fluid, the master transferred fluid to the slave. If you then
dis-engage that locker then re-engage that locker BEFORE the slave had time to fully drain,
then you are attempting to pump more fluid into the system than can be held and thus a
stiffness, "kick back", or leak back is often observed.
When you dis-engage a locker you are now committed to wait until it does so before flipping
back on again. This can be a PITA on the trail when you think you don't need them then all of
a sudden the trail conditions change on you
As long as they go ON and OFF (eventually) your good. It helps to actuate them regularly and
make sure there's a decent gear oil replacement schedule.
The slave is extended and full of fluid, the master transferred fluid to the slave. If you then
dis-engage that locker then re-engage that locker BEFORE the slave had time to fully drain,
then you are attempting to pump more fluid into the system than can be held and thus a
stiffness, "kick back", or leak back is often observed.
When you dis-engage a locker you are now committed to wait until it does so before flipping
back on again. This can be a PITA on the trail when you think you don't need them then all of
a sudden the trail conditions change on you
As long as they go ON and OFF (eventually) your good. It helps to actuate them regularly and
make sure there's a decent gear oil replacement schedule.
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Re: differential sticking
Exactly what Ron said.
By the way, it's best not to engage the lockers on paved surfaces. Loose surfaces put less strain on the drivetrain.
By the way, it's best not to engage the lockers on paved surfaces. Loose surfaces put less strain on the drivetrain.
Paul C.
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'73 Swiss 710M SOLD
'89 Puch 230GE
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'73 Swiss 710M SOLD
'89 Puch 230GE
-
ChickenPinz
- Posts: 403
- Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2020 7:16 pm
Re: differential sticking
If you're driving straight (no turning, no curves), I think it's fine to engage the locker on a hard surface, and then shortly thereafter release it to ensure you're periodically exercising the mechanisms. I'd argue it's better to do that than never engage them. Of course, it's always better on a surfaces with some give to it, but that's not always convenient for some folks.
Separate, but related, many folks recommend engaging the center "locker" (transfer case) to engage the front drive shaft if you're experiencing driveline vibration to the front drive during highway driving at speed. This reduces/eliminates the vibration, and goes against what I was taught for part-time 4WD, but seasoned veterans of the Pinz World say it's okay.
Separate, but related, many folks recommend engaging the center "locker" (transfer case) to engage the front drive shaft if you're experiencing driveline vibration to the front drive during highway driving at speed. This reduces/eliminates the vibration, and goes against what I was taught for part-time 4WD, but seasoned veterans of the Pinz World say it's okay.
710K