Fuses for early production ('71) K

[mockingbird812]

I was installing a new turn signal (Air Heads version for '71 VW bus). The new signal worked fine for few minutes and then the number 12 (4 amp) fuse blew (button popped up). I reset it but the turn signals (and hi beam actuation) did not work. I measured resistance across the two sides of the number 12 fuse and saw that it was an open circuit. I put in a temporary bridge wire ( I know that is a no-no) and the turn signal and hi-beam acutator work fine. Questions: how do i change out the fuse and is 4 amps appropriate for this fuse (all other fuses are 8 amps)?

Thanks

[undysworld]

They're breakers, not fuses.
I'd stay with the same amp rating as original.
Most people seem to have used marine replacements, and a search will likely give you the details on the specific ones they used.

[mockingbird812]

Thanks for the clarification. Yes, breakers. I found this link for marine breakers. Any other suggestions or experience with the marine breakers (the post is now 10 yrs old and I don't know if any have tried other solutions to this problem)? Any others with Swiss breakers that can verify that no. 12 is 4 amps?

Thank you and Merry Christmas!

http://web.archive.org/web/200706180931 ... ement.html

[undysworld]

Sam,
Off the top of my head, I don't recall any alternative fixes being posted about.
I'd suggest checking the schiz regarding the proper amp rating for the circuit/s: http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... =14&t=8985

[mockingbird812]

Very nice schematic. Thanks for steering me there. It looks like all breakers are to be 8A. I will check with SAV for a suitable replacement. I received a pm saying that SAV had original breakers. I have had my Pinz for nearly 14 years and have only had problems with the carb solenoid breaker popping every now and then, so for now I would like to stick with the orignal design.

[rmel]

Although EXPENSIVE, SAV has original replacement breakers http://www.pinzgauer.com/showdetails.ph ... 7101850760
If you need just one it's the hassle free approach.

[Hotzenplotz]

I bought two 8 Amps breakers from SAV two years ago. At the exchange rate used then it was way cheaper than S-Tec

Still wok flawlessly..

[mockingbird812]

Good to know. Thanks. Any challenges or tips to a successful swap out?

[Hotzenplotz]

mockingbird812

at that point it was easy


I had to rewire the dash, so I took it out anyway. I guess that is the best approach.
You see two columns of 8 breakers held by a metal cage. I guess it will be difficult to get the breakers out with the dash still in place ...

The dash wiring harness is plugged to the truck with several connectors. Follow them carefully and label them all

[mockingbird812]

Terrific photo Albert. Vielen Dank!

[Jimm391730]

Any challenges or tips to a successful swap out?

Be gentle. The crimp connectors are prone to breaking between the crimp and the ring or spade, don't pull hard or bend them or they may break. The worst part is that if they do break, it can be difficult to see where they were connected!

[mockingbird812]

Thanks for the heads up Jimm.

[mockingbird812]

Update. Got the circuit breakers from SAV. I R/R my non-working number twelve circuit breaker 4A for a brand new 8A one, I replaced the old flasher unit with a new SAV unit. I also checked wires for continuity through out the truck including the flasher switch, and inspecting the rear lights (where my problems persists: no rear flashers, no rear brake lights, only the left rear turn signal works - all other lights work fine including rear parking lights and "camoflage" lights - S3 light switch position) and the rear wire junction box. I have chronicled the process here with a few photos. All junctions, connections, and wires appear in good shape (my truck spent the last 14 years in AZ. I have a few questions (using the colored wiring diagram): On the brake light switch, there is an orange wire that works its way back to the rear lights, but in the drawing it is not hooked up to anything and also on my truck it is not hooked up to anything (see photo of my rear light units). How do I test the brake light switch if the brake pedal movement does not actuate my brake lights? What are the orange wires that terminate at the rear lights for? I hestitate to buy a new buy a new flasher switch when mine looks as good as it does inside - no corrosion - but of course the mechanical connections internal to the switch may not be as good as they should be.

Any suggestions are appreciated.









Note the difference in the thickness of the collars around the buttons of the old and new circuit brakers:

Filing the collar down ensures it will fit in the opening in the dashboard:


After filing - comparison of old to new (modified) and to a new (unmodified):


Back in the dash:

[mockingbird812]

I bridged the two connectors for the brake light switch (orange wire and the black/red wire connect to the hazard switch) thinking that maybe my brake switch was inop., but my brake lights did not come on as I would have expected. This leads me to believe that maybe my problem is in my hazard switch. Does this make sense?

Thanks

[pinzinator]

I would like to take my dash out one day and re-wire it like Hotzenplatz. But instead of going back with breakers, I would try to install GM-style fuse blocks like I did with my Haflinger. It was nice to get rid of that old, expensive stuff.