PNW snow is here!

[NEWFISHER]

1st run of the snow season in the new Pinz and it did well. Have a locker light and 4x light to replace, tighten the front hub step ( rattles while driving) and get the doors to stop POURING water into the cab....what were they thinking when they designed the window channels? Trans howl is obnoxious at 60, well 40 to 60 but the rattle trap is on its way and just changed the trans fluid to Redline. Great trip and cant wait to get back up there with the girls, dogs and some pallets to burn.
.

[VinceAtReal4x4s]

Looks like fun!

And just so you know, that Rattle Trap wont do you much good without a complete sound reduction treatment that will require other materials. The floormat insulation here is one of the best on the market and makes up the core of what you need to start reducing sound. Your aftermarket top is a huge help as well. http://www.heco.net/noise.html

Cascade makes great stuff that I have used before as well.
http://cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_contr ... rriers.htm

[NEWFISHER]

Thanks for the links Vince. I have cut up some horse stall mats and made a trans diaper, rear bed mat, rear cab shelf mat, front bed shelf mat and stuck it on top of and on the bottom of the trans tunnel. I used some fat mat on the forward inner cab wheel arches and seat pan areas as well as the dog house. Its much quieter but still need a little more under the floor boards, behind door panels, along verticle wall of lower bed from fron to rear and I think it will be tollerable for my wife and dogs.

Anyone make a helical cut gear set instead of the straight cut gears gears? The Pinz would be a great daily driver if the drivetrain was quieter. Its a good thing the Swiss never went to battle, the enemies could hear them comming!

[Jimm391730]

...tighten the front hub step ( rattles while driving)...

You want the wheel to be bolted tight against the drum/hub, without anything preventing this. So take some rubber (I've used a THICK O-ring, 1/4" or so in cross section, 1-2" in diameter) and used weatherstripping cement to bond it to the back of the step, so the rubber compresses and prevents rattle without interfering with the proper rim to hub fit.

[acebee]

or.. to keep things simple..the way designed..

obviously you wouldn't want a citizen movement in your rolex ..

use your high tech noise cancelling ear muff in this snowy weather.. shall keep frostbite off those ears too

hopefully like swiss ..you have no need to go to battle

leaving a pinzgauer the way it is designed will preserve it's value..

my essential learning in history.. about the redbull pinz..

[feel free to use the nice search feature on this forum to learn more]

[rmel]

Lots of rain in the Bay Area, thinking about adding Ore locks in my window channels

You just may need to replace your channels if they leak that bad. Do the windows have a lot of play?
I did mine 2 years ago -- tight and they don't seem to leak. I also replaced all door rubbers which were
sources of leaks but also rattles. New rubbers and slides just tightened everything up.

[NEWFISHER]

Lots of rain in the Bay Area, thinking about adding Ore locks in my window channels

You just may need to replace your channels if they leak that bad. Do the windows have a lot of play?
I did mine 2 years ago -- tight and they don't seem to leak. I also replaced all door rubbers which were
sources of leaks but also rattles. New rubbers and slides just tightened everything up.

they don't " look" too bad, but makes sense if they are old and cracks are not visible. The water just runs out the ends of the channel and into the door frame at each end. I just sent an eticket to Scott at EI to add the channels and new upper/lower door seals to my pile of stuff he is assembling for me. Thanks for the tip.

[acebee]

best way to keep rain out.. at least in my experience has been to make a al or plastic channel mod & insert in the space between the tarp & the body..

there might be pictures.. at least it used to be in the old sdp website.. i think the link below should work

http://madscientisthut.com/sdp-pin/index.html

mine used to create a puddle under driver seat / ground disconnect area..

till i got fed up & put the mod ..

[rmel]

If you do your doors, you may want to look here, http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... 3&start=15
The door gasket is now in reel form so you get to cut and join the corners. I made a miter for that shown above that worked great. Other
tips in that link as well.

[NEWFISHER]

acebee,

Thanks for the link! Learned alot within those pages. I did not see the door mods for water leaking though? If you stumble across them, I would love to learn from them.

[NEWFISHER]

Thank you Rmel!

[TechMOGogy]

Looks like fun!

And just so you know, that Rattle Trap wont do you much good without a complete sound reduction treatment that will require other materials. The floormat insulation here is one of the best on the market and makes up the core of what you need to start reducing sound. Your aftermarket top is a huge help as well. http://www.heco.net/noise.html

Cascade makes great stuff that I have used before as well.
http://cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_contr ... rriers.htm

I had this installed on all interior surfaces and then topped with bedliner - effectiveness still TBD
http://www.alsliner.com/alsHNR

[VinceAtReal4x4s]

Pretty scary man... if you get one spec of microscopic rust started under that stuff, that's the end and you'll never know it until its way too late.

Removable matting made with a heavy loaded barrier decoupled with foam is the way engineers do sound insulation, then you add absorbing materials where appropriate, like 3/4" melamine foam, then a non-reflexive layer, like carpet to keep sound waves from bouncing. Materials like rubber mats, etc. don't actually do that much as they just re-transmit or bounce the sound waves hitting the other side of them. You can keep stacking materials and adding matting or liquid bedliners (big mistake I think) to block sound waves but the weight and corrosion issues that accompany other, blunt methods like those can cost you in a lot of ways.

I'm going to do a fully geeked-out post about sound control.

[TechMOGogy]

Pretty scary man... if you get one spec of microscopic rust started under that stuff, that's the end and you'll never know it until its way too late.

Removable matting made with a heavy loaded barrier decoupled with foam is the way engineers do sound insulation, then you add absorbing materials where appropriate, like 3/4" melamine foam, then a non-reflexive layer, like carpet to keep sound waves from bouncing. Materials like rubber mats, etc. don't actually do that much as they just re-transmit or bounce the sound waves hitting the other side of them. You can keep stacking materials and adding matting or liquid bedliners (big mistake I think) to block sound waves but the weight and corrosion issues that accompany other, blunt methods like those can cost you in a lot of ways.

I'm going to do a fully geeked-out post about sound control.

Sorry to derail this thread
Yup, generally I would agree with you but we took all basically to bare metal, 2k epoxy primer, HNR then liner - should be good to go and I would also never advise just doing it over old paint without hours and hours of proper prep!
Your write up is very good and has some additional things I will do in the future
Dan

[NEWFISHER]

Here is Vince's thread on some sound deadning techniques and materials. Thanks Vince!

Headed out tomorrow on a snow run and to burn the tree

Anyone else enjoying the winter white stuff?