THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I will be following the instructions on the SDP site. I follow everything up to:

Step 4. Rotate the engine one half turn in the direction of normal rotation (the way it turns when it runs), until the chalk mark is aligned with the pointer and adjust the valves of #2 cylinder. Rotate another half turn until the timing mark is aligned again and adjust #4 cylinder’s valves, another half turn and adjust the valves for #3 cylinder.

Now will the distributor rotor point to the mark in the dist. at each one of these stops as well (give or take a few degrees based on the timing)? Seems like it should to me. We are setting the valve clearance at the ignition point for each cylinder, right?

I'll be checking the head bolt torques, replacing the gaskets with the rubber ones from EI, checking the timing, checking the plugs, and hopefully calling it a day.

The rotor will be at the corresponding spot for each cylinder as you adjust them (i.e. for the #1 cylinder, with the pulley at the mark, the rotor will be under the #1 wire contact). The valves are set when they are at Top Dead Center (TDC), ideally that is when ignition happens.

Be sure to use a good cement to secure those rubber gaskets to the covers. I used gasket shellac (sp?) from NAPA with great success.

Ah yes, that makes sense now. The indicator in the dist. is for #1 cylinder TDC.

Thanks,

I have always reused the originals and they have always been in great shape. Is that not everone else's experience? I have adjusted the valves on about ten trucks at this point and have never seen a bad one yet. I also have only had to actually turn the screws on one truck as the valves were all in specs except for one truck which were just slightly too tight on three cylinders. I just did the two Pinzgauers I have now and they were both in spec on all valves. Am I just lucky or do they get out of spec very often?

I check mine every other oil change and have rarely had to adjust them.
I always reused the OEM gaskets unless one tore, then I'd put on a new one. I bought a set of the rubber ones from Scott at Mogfest and have only used one so far. I haven't torn the other OEM ones...yet.

I was wondering this too. I didn't get around to it today. I wonder why the recommend checking them so often if they don't really change. Or maybe under the conditions we drive them (i.e. non-military use) they don't need it as often?

The close adjustment intervals are mostly for preventative fleet maintenance. If a log is kept, it is easy to spot a problem if the same valve requires attention. A head can then be removed and repaired before piston or cylinder damage occurs , preventing a failure in the field.