Civilian Ignition Conversion - Now No Spark

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SDPintheLBC
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Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2005 5:56 pm
Location: SoCal

Civilian Ignition Conversion - Now No Spark

Post by SDPintheLBC »

I just installed the EI civilian ignition conversion and now I don't have any spark. I already had the pertronix installed in stock distributor and it worked great. Now I installed the kit with coil, wires, cap & rotor. I used the my rotor because it was the same part number and mine was still good and already shaved.

I checked wiring to the coil - red & white to +.... and black to -
24v going to the coil
Plugs gapped at .75mm

The battery switch was off during the installation, so I don't think I zapped the Pertronix.

Is there a way to test the Pertronix module?

Could the new coil be bad?

Please help.

Thank you.
Mark

'72 S.A. 710M
'67 S.A. Haffy
'73 S.A. Condor
SDPintheLBC
Posts: 76
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2005 5:56 pm
Location: SoCal

Post by SDPintheLBC »

Ok, I put the points back in and still no spark :evil: This is driving me nuts. Does anybody know how to test the coil? It's a 3-ohm Flamethrower that came with the conversion kit.

Thanks
Mark

'72 S.A. 710M
'67 S.A. Haffy
'73 S.A. Condor
SDPintheLBC
Posts: 76
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2005 5:56 pm
Location: SoCal

Post by SDPintheLBC »

I just tested the coil with a multimeter based on info found on the net. But I don't really know exactly what it means. Here are the results:

Stock coil:
Primary = 5.5 ohms
Secondary = 12,200 ohms

New Coil:
Primary = Didn't register anything except on the 20m setting
Secondary = Didn't register anything on any setting

I'm assuming this means the new coil is bad?
Mark

'72 S.A. 710M
'67 S.A. Haffy
'73 S.A. Condor
Jim LaGuardia
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Post by Jim LaGuardia »

Make sure you did not crimp the connectors over the insulation on the wire.
use a test lamp or meter to verify power to the positive side, and then check the negative circuit.
Cheers, Jim LaGuardia
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v510/Goatwerks/
"Arch Magus of Machines."
SDPintheLBC
Posts: 76
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2005 5:56 pm
Location: SoCal

Post by SDPintheLBC »

Thanks Jim. I've checked all the crimps and wires. All is good.

I do have 24.5v at the coil, though. The instructions say that I should not have more than 21v with the engine running @ 2500 RPM. Does this voltage drop when the engine is running at this speed? My pertronix has been running fine for 2 years in with this condition.

Thanks,
Mark

'72 S.A. 710M
'67 S.A. Haffy
'73 S.A. Condor
ExpeditionImports
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Post by ExpeditionImports »

We have had very good luck with the Pertronix coil, less than a 2% failure rate, however I don't believe I've ever had one right out of the box be bad. For testing, re-install your original coil and see if it is working.

In regards to the voltages. Your system uses a ballast resistor with a "bypass" for startup. What this means is that with the key on, but the engine not running you will have your battery voltage at the coil. As soon as the engine is started, that voltage should drop to between 17-21 volts. If no voltage drop when running, either your ballast resistor is bad OR has been wired incorrectly. We see numerous cases where the resistor is fine, just 2 of the leads have been reversed.

As for the Pertronix coil, if it is bad send it back as it is under warranty. Sorry for any inconvenience.

Cheers,

Scott
Expedition Imports Corporation
Vallejo, California
www.expedition-imports.com
"You didn't buy a Chevy..." "Hows that Amazon tech support working out...."
SDPintheLBC
Posts: 76
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2005 5:56 pm
Location: SoCal

Post by SDPintheLBC »

Scott - Thanks for the reply.

Ok, I will try the old coil. Will it work with the civilian wire set-up?
Mark

'72 S.A. 710M
'67 S.A. Haffy
'73 S.A. Condor
ExpeditionImports
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Post by ExpeditionImports »

It will work enough to tell you if that is the problem......just re-install the barrels and aluminum cap for the feed and trigger, pull the boot back on the coil wire and stick the end into the cap. Use this method for trouble shooting, do not try and run it this way unless you convert over the coil wire permanently.

Cheers,

Scott
Expedition Imports Corporation
Vallejo, California
www.expedition-imports.com
"You didn't buy a Chevy..." "Hows that Amazon tech support working out...."
SDPintheLBC
Posts: 76
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2005 5:56 pm
Location: SoCal

Post by SDPintheLBC »

Ok, it's the coil.

I went to Auto Zone with my multimeter and found a coil with 3.5 ohms primary resistance. It's for an old jetta or rabbit. Put it in and it fired right up, barely touched the button. So I pulled out my points again and reinstalled the Pertronix and fired right up again. Whew! I'm relieved. That was a PITA!

Scott - how do I handle the coil deal? I still want the flamethrower. By the way, the 2% deal, with my luck, that's about normal!

Thanks,
Mark

'72 S.A. 710M
'67 S.A. Haffy
'73 S.A. Condor
PinzEOD
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Post by PinzEOD »

How about a part number for that AutoZone coil? :D
Mike Newton 1973 712M (sold)
I do not like this word "bomb." It is not a bomb. It is a device that is exploding. Jacques le Blanc
SDPintheLBC
Posts: 76
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2005 5:56 pm
Location: SoCal

Post by SDPintheLBC »

It's a "Duralast LU800". It's an Auto Zone brand probably sold in a variety of stores under different names/part nos.

Nice to know there's an emergency option whether you have points or Pertronix. An internet search revealed that the flamethrower coils going bad isn't all that uncommon.
Mark

'72 S.A. 710M
'67 S.A. Haffy
'73 S.A. Condor
SDPintheLBC
Posts: 76
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2005 5:56 pm
Location: SoCal

Post by SDPintheLBC »

I did a little looking here are the applications that I found for the coil:

1954 MG TD Series 1.2L
1974 Fiat X-19 1.3L
1974 Opel Manta Luxus 1.9L

I'm sure there's more, but this is all I found from Auto Zone. BTW, it's $25.
Mark

'72 S.A. 710M
'67 S.A. Haffy
'73 S.A. Condor
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