It started last night. I jumped on the expressway to run up one exit, about two miles. I made it only one. I started losing power rapidly. I pulled off in a construction zone and fussed with everything for 15 minutes. Finally go it started and managed to drive home.
I decided that the problem was gas related not spark.
Today I pulled the gas filter. I found red paint like speckles that ranged from dust sized to half the size of a dime.
Bummer!
So..... What is the best red death fix? I'm not ready to spend a grand on a new tank. Maybe next year I can do that.
Thanks!
(Or maybe I should say "Tanks"????)
Timothy
OH NO! Red Death!
Moderator: TechMOGogy
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LibTimothy
- Posts: 123
- Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 3:14 pm
- Location: Salado, TX
- Contact:
OH NO! Red Death!
When the only tool in your toolbox is a hammer, every problem starts to look like a nail.
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Jim LaGuardia
- Posts: 1707
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 3:42 pm
- Location: San Bernardino Ca
- Contact:
Red Death
Hello Timothy
Get ready it is a long one!
I have recently recovered from the Read Death so it is fresh in my memory. I just got my Carbs Re-Built by an old guy up here in Brisbane who specialises in Zenith Carbs and I drove it home from the shop and it ran like it never had before it was perfect. After I got home I looked in the box of goodies that he had left me and I found a fuel filter. Funny I thought I have only just changed that, and then I looked at it closely and the Red Death was there. Rather than Stuff up my pristine carbs I got straight into it following the instructions I looked at on the SDP website under Technical Section, Body, Fuel Tank Liner.
First of all I tried Caustic Soda and Red Hot water (as it is cheap) but that did not touch the lining it at all. I then plugged all of the holes well and filled it up with 5 litres of good quality paint stripper, coins and nuts and bolts and all sorts of stuff. Rather than shake it by hand I thought I would be a smart arse and borrow a cement mixer to do the work for me. See pic me pleased with myself. Little did I know!
It was noisy but after I had had a few beers I hardly noticed it at all. I changed its position regularly and let it run for many hours (almost all weekend). I flushed it well with hot water and took all of the plugs off and shined a torch inside. Most of the Paint had gone but to my dismay there was still a lot left probably 25%. Mostly in areas where the shrapnel could not reach. Pretty pi**ed off I wondered what to do next. I worked in the furniture industry for a while in England and we used a stripper that was imported from the good old US that was truly unbelievable. It is used for stripping aircraft and ships and hardcore industrial stuff like that. Benco from Crossville, TN is the company. This stripper is amazing and I would have given it a go if I could have got it in Australia but I would have had to order a pallet load! Below is a link to their products. I think the B14 is the best as it has the highest Methylene Chloride content. You can get enough to do your tank in the US for USD$61.95.
http://bencosales.com/store/index.php?cPath=63_65
So I cut 3 holes in the tank and could see the baffles inside properly. There was a lot of paint in the end section of the tank as the gaps down the side of the baffles were so small (see pic) that the nuts and bolts could not find a way in (or out) there very well. I had the inside sand blasted for $30 dollars and welded for $80 and re coated the inside as per the original instructions. I have touched up the paint and it looks fine. My only concern is if it takes a real whack the welds may not be as strong as the original design but time will tell.
Sorry it was a bit of an epic but in short if I was in the US I would buy the Benco stripper (just be careful with it, it is strong stuff). And if that did not work I would be getting my hacksaw or my cheque book out. Leave the cement mixer for the driveway!
Good Luck
Sam
Get ready it is a long one!
I have recently recovered from the Read Death so it is fresh in my memory. I just got my Carbs Re-Built by an old guy up here in Brisbane who specialises in Zenith Carbs and I drove it home from the shop and it ran like it never had before it was perfect. After I got home I looked in the box of goodies that he had left me and I found a fuel filter. Funny I thought I have only just changed that, and then I looked at it closely and the Red Death was there. Rather than Stuff up my pristine carbs I got straight into it following the instructions I looked at on the SDP website under Technical Section, Body, Fuel Tank Liner.
First of all I tried Caustic Soda and Red Hot water (as it is cheap) but that did not touch the lining it at all. I then plugged all of the holes well and filled it up with 5 litres of good quality paint stripper, coins and nuts and bolts and all sorts of stuff. Rather than shake it by hand I thought I would be a smart arse and borrow a cement mixer to do the work for me. See pic me pleased with myself. Little did I know!
It was noisy but after I had had a few beers I hardly noticed it at all. I changed its position regularly and let it run for many hours (almost all weekend). I flushed it well with hot water and took all of the plugs off and shined a torch inside. Most of the Paint had gone but to my dismay there was still a lot left probably 25%. Mostly in areas where the shrapnel could not reach. Pretty pi**ed off I wondered what to do next. I worked in the furniture industry for a while in England and we used a stripper that was imported from the good old US that was truly unbelievable. It is used for stripping aircraft and ships and hardcore industrial stuff like that. Benco from Crossville, TN is the company. This stripper is amazing and I would have given it a go if I could have got it in Australia but I would have had to order a pallet load! Below is a link to their products. I think the B14 is the best as it has the highest Methylene Chloride content. You can get enough to do your tank in the US for USD$61.95.
http://bencosales.com/store/index.php?cPath=63_65
So I cut 3 holes in the tank and could see the baffles inside properly. There was a lot of paint in the end section of the tank as the gaps down the side of the baffles were so small (see pic) that the nuts and bolts could not find a way in (or out) there very well. I had the inside sand blasted for $30 dollars and welded for $80 and re coated the inside as per the original instructions. I have touched up the paint and it looks fine. My only concern is if it takes a real whack the welds may not be as strong as the original design but time will tell.
Sorry it was a bit of an epic but in short if I was in the US I would buy the Benco stripper (just be careful with it, it is strong stuff). And if that did not work I would be getting my hacksaw or my cheque book out. Leave the cement mixer for the driveway!
Good Luck
Sam
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LibTimothy
- Posts: 123
- Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 3:14 pm
- Location: Salado, TX
- Contact:
Thanks!
Sam,
Thanks! It is nice to know what worked and what did not work. I'll look into sandblasting and welding.
Timothy
Thanks! It is nice to know what worked and what did not work. I'll look into sandblasting and welding.
Timothy
When the only tool in your toolbox is a hammer, every problem starts to look like a nail.
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Protoman333
- Posts: 57
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 5:59 pm
i thought someone on the board had tried POR's tank repair stuff and said it worked? i cant seem to make the search feature work right now. maybe it was on the yahoo board. they put the "cleaner" in there with a chain (if i remember correctly) shook/rolled/etc and finished with the rest of the kit. of course, looking at the baffeling in the tank from the "quite literally" cut aways pics im not sure how that would completely remove the red cr@p.
http://www.por-outlet.com/shop/product_ ... 3ff9834057
dont know why i remember or from where though, maybe this will spark someones memory thats been here for a while.
if you arent familar with POR products, im pretty fond of them. just the straight up por product (paint over rust) is awesome. i think a lot of people would agree with me.
anyway, just something to consider.
http://www.por-outlet.com/shop/product_ ... 3ff9834057
dont know why i remember or from where though, maybe this will spark someones memory thats been here for a while.
if you arent familar with POR products, im pretty fond of them. just the straight up por product (paint over rust) is awesome. i think a lot of people would agree with me.
anyway, just something to consider.
Chris
'73 710m
'73 710m
Fuel Tank Slushing Compound
what you are looking for is "Fuel Tank Slushing Compound"
ask at your automotive paint store or google it
started using it on motorcycles in the early 70's
makes a plastic coating on the inside of the tank, pour in the whole quart, slop it around so it gets on everything, then pour it back in the can for the next 6 or 8 tanks.
will seal all those pinholes, and cracks (non active) and fix the rust and other stuff you can't get out.
I do agree that the tank needs to be CLEAN. Perhaps the big $ POR 15 cleaning system is a good deal, never tried it and I have not purchased any slushing compound for 5 or 10 years...
I just got a '63 unimog, think I will drop the tanks and slush them just to put one more nagging issue out of my head.
------------
BTW: expedition imports sells the POR 15 kit for the same as factory direct
any big town paint shop/store would carry Fuel Tank Slushing Compound on the shelf so it can be done today...
ask at your automotive paint store or google it
started using it on motorcycles in the early 70's
makes a plastic coating on the inside of the tank, pour in the whole quart, slop it around so it gets on everything, then pour it back in the can for the next 6 or 8 tanks.
will seal all those pinholes, and cracks (non active) and fix the rust and other stuff you can't get out.
I do agree that the tank needs to be CLEAN. Perhaps the big $ POR 15 cleaning system is a good deal, never tried it and I have not purchased any slushing compound for 5 or 10 years...
I just got a '63 unimog, think I will drop the tanks and slush them just to put one more nagging issue out of my head.
------------
BTW: expedition imports sells the POR 15 kit for the same as factory direct
any big town paint shop/store would carry Fuel Tank Slushing Compound on the shelf so it can be done today...
Peter Ehlert
34°37'N 112°19'W & 31°43'N 116°39'W
1963 Unimog 404 Doka ragtop
34°37'N 112°19'W & 31°43'N 116°39'W
1963 Unimog 404 Doka ragtop
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pinzinator
- Posts: 927
- Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2004 3:12 pm
- Location: Indio, California
Is every Pinzgauer destined to an eventual Red Death? The next time my tank gets low, which doesn't take too long, I'm going to remove the sending unit and take a peek.
Eastwood sells some very good gas tank sealer. I've used their product twice on car tanks without a bit of trouble. The stuff worked exactly as they promised. Prep work is critical, you don't just dump it in and shake.
Eastwood sells some very good gas tank sealer. I've used their product twice on car tanks without a bit of trouble. The stuff worked exactly as they promised. Prep work is critical, you don't just dump it in and shake.
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Protoman333
- Posts: 57
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 5:59 pm
"Is every Pinzgauer destined to an eventual Red Death? .... I'm going to remove the sending unit and take a peek."
hasnt happened to me yet and ive run quite a few gallons through mine - maybe 60,000 miles or so. many with cd2 (lead substitute) many without. sadly, though, the answer to your question is, without a doubt, yes. it will eventually peel away...you just dont know when...it may happen 20 years or 20 seconds from now!
taking a peek is cool, but just checking your fuel filter is probably the best indicator.
when you look, hopefully youll see that its just fine! and free of neswpapers. and free of spanners. and free of ... well, you get the point!
hasnt happened to me yet and ive run quite a few gallons through mine - maybe 60,000 miles or so. many with cd2 (lead substitute) many without. sadly, though, the answer to your question is, without a doubt, yes. it will eventually peel away...you just dont know when...it may happen 20 years or 20 seconds from now!
taking a peek is cool, but just checking your fuel filter is probably the best indicator.
when you look, hopefully youll see that its just fine! and free of neswpapers. and free of spanners. and free of ... well, you get the point!
Chris
'73 710m
'73 710m
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LibTimothy
- Posts: 123
- Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 3:14 pm
- Location: Salado, TX
- Contact:
Red Death
Well...
I had to drop my tank to fix the gaskets on the sender and pick up. While it was down I looked into the filler neck with a flashlight and found that the tank looked pristine.
Then a week later, I broke down on the highway and found red dearth in the fuel filter.
I'd say check the filter also.
Timothy
I had to drop my tank to fix the gaskets on the sender and pick up. While it was down I looked into the filler neck with a flashlight and found that the tank looked pristine.
Then a week later, I broke down on the highway and found red dearth in the fuel filter.
I'd say check the filter also.
Timothy
When the only tool in your toolbox is a hammer, every problem starts to look like a nail.
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pinzinator
- Posts: 927
- Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2004 3:12 pm
- Location: Indio, California
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Hawkeye Pinz
- Posts: 49
- Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 10:12 pm
- Location: Davenport, Iowa
tank sealer
Jim I just found that my pinz has the red death. do you need to remove the liner before sealing the tank with the sealer from EI and if so what is the best product and method to do so.
buzzzzz... are you going to cut your tank open like this? have you considered having a new tank built? michael712 here in slc has a very nice design.
1973 710m
"it is not in the best interest of the shepherd to breed smarter sheep." ~ author unknown
press any key to continue or any other key to quit. ~author confidential
"it is not in the best interest of the shepherd to breed smarter sheep." ~ author unknown
press any key to continue or any other key to quit. ~author confidential
red death
Ka if I can find out what to use and how to use it I think I will try cleaning and sealing it myself. The way construction has slowed here theres not as much work for masonry contractors as in the past. That is the reason I didnt take your offer on the top. Hope things pick up soon.
Buzzz
Buzzz