Won't that material bend and then crack when you're doing any sort of twisting and turning off road Erik?
I wish I could ship these sheets of 1" polyurethane as it's flexible, was easy to install and was cheap (a sheet was like $45.00). If anyone is coming this way, the manufacturer turned my order around in like 3 days.
Started to insulate my top.
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texas pinzgauer
- Posts: 1062
- Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 2:43 pm
- Location: Houston, Texas USA
insulation
Looking for next new (for me) toy
1974 712M - sold
1973 710M - sold
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id ... 3094951494
1974 712M - sold
1973 710M - sold
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id ... 3094951494
Re: insulation
texas pinzgauer wrote:Won't that material bend and then crack when you're doing any sort of twisting and turning off road Erik?
I wish I could ship these sheets of 1" polyurethane as it's flexible, was easy to install and was cheap (a sheet was like $45.00). If anyone is coming this way, the manufacturer turned my order around in like 3 days.
I am worried about it cracking. I couldn't find any thing that would hold the polyurethane to the roof. I left it on the sides just couldn't keep it glued to the roof.
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texas pinzgauer
- Posts: 1062
- Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 2:43 pm
- Location: Houston, Texas USA
With the material I used, I didn't even need to glue it. I measured, cut and then installed it.
Looking for next new (for me) toy
1974 712M - sold
1973 710M - sold
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id ... 3094951494
1974 712M - sold
1973 710M - sold
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id ... 3094951494
Gents,
Insulation is a special science, meaning that just applying foam etc might set up for rusted metal after a while. You won't see it until it shows on the outside and underneath it could be really bad.
It basically boils down that any insulation needs a vapour-barrier to prevent water-vapour to condense inside the insulation and start rusting the metal: water + oxygen + metal = rust !
Please read this long but excellent report below and the right way of doing it. I just did not only believe this guy, but had this vapour-barrier spelled out in many different places.
It is lengthy, but good stuff about the proper way to insulate a VW van
http://www.shagadelic.org/VW/info/gmbul ... trir1.html
Good luck with the projects
Jules
Insulation is a special science, meaning that just applying foam etc might set up for rusted metal after a while. You won't see it until it shows on the outside and underneath it could be really bad.
It basically boils down that any insulation needs a vapour-barrier to prevent water-vapour to condense inside the insulation and start rusting the metal: water + oxygen + metal = rust !
Please read this long but excellent report below and the right way of doing it. I just did not only believe this guy, but had this vapour-barrier spelled out in many different places.
It is lengthy, but good stuff about the proper way to insulate a VW van
http://www.shagadelic.org/VW/info/gmbul ... trir1.html
Good luck with the projects
Jules
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)
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undysworld
- Posts: 1776
- Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 8:08 am
- Location: Blue Mounds, WI
Eric,
Again I cannot locate the article, but even styrofoam and other 'closed cell' foam are apparently not imune.
I had bad molding from a leaking tap and styrofoam on a housewall. the styrofoam came off the wall because of the mushrooms growing behind it, which really got me interested in proper insulation.
The trouble is that it might go well for a long time, as you cannot get at it anymore (after gluing it) and then suddenly it appears on the outside....
My research showed: vapour-barriers for any insulation ( I guess the Space Shuttle is an exception).
So if it works OK, then good for you all !!
Applying KoolSeal is next on my list, which should also minimise steel-rot
Good luck with your projects
Jules
Again I cannot locate the article, but even styrofoam and other 'closed cell' foam are apparently not imune.
I had bad molding from a leaking tap and styrofoam on a housewall. the styrofoam came off the wall because of the mushrooms growing behind it, which really got me interested in proper insulation.
The trouble is that it might go well for a long time, as you cannot get at it anymore (after gluing it) and then suddenly it appears on the outside....
My research showed: vapour-barriers for any insulation ( I guess the Space Shuttle is an exception).
So if it works OK, then good for you all !!
Applying KoolSeal is next on my list, which should also minimise steel-rot
Good luck with your projects
Jules
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)
Jules on your home. Are you talking about EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems) http://www.eima.com/ ? If so I can email you a ton of info you'll want to know.
Erik
Erik
Hi Eric,
No it was on the inside of the house...
In Holland we generally have double brick walls, with a gap in between to avoid moisture-bridges.
But then I insulated the inside walls with styrofoam, then a vapour-barrier and finally plaster-board. I had hot-air heating and it was like sitting in a thermo-flask. 2 minutes and the place was warm.
This particular problem was with the neighbour, who had a leaking water-tap leaking onto my inside brick-wall, now with the insulation right next to it - nice and warm for the molds - it started molding etc.
BUT....
I have since sold the house, but still have nightmares about the great horrible Mold lurking behind every wall.
After reading a few bits on the Internet: If you sprayed the closed cell foam, so that it covered up every crack, OK it might take a very long time, but ANY open cracks would allow for vapour and thus condensation and all it needs is one point to start...
Most important, not even plastic sheeting is completely water-tight, but probably close enough for our life-time.
The great horrible Mould might just be biting his time, so that 30 years in the future, when all the plastic sheeting has rotted away, he will strike again...
Sleep well Eric, we own Pinzes and take all that poop in our stride; live and drive today !
Best regards,
Jules
No it was on the inside of the house...
In Holland we generally have double brick walls, with a gap in between to avoid moisture-bridges.
But then I insulated the inside walls with styrofoam, then a vapour-barrier and finally plaster-board. I had hot-air heating and it was like sitting in a thermo-flask. 2 minutes and the place was warm.
This particular problem was with the neighbour, who had a leaking water-tap leaking onto my inside brick-wall, now with the insulation right next to it - nice and warm for the molds - it started molding etc.
BUT....
I have since sold the house, but still have nightmares about the great horrible Mold lurking behind every wall.
After reading a few bits on the Internet: If you sprayed the closed cell foam, so that it covered up every crack, OK it might take a very long time, but ANY open cracks would allow for vapour and thus condensation and all it needs is one point to start...
Most important, not even plastic sheeting is completely water-tight, but probably close enough for our life-time.
The great horrible Mould might just be biting his time, so that 30 years in the future, when all the plastic sheeting has rotted away, he will strike again...
Sleep well Eric, we own Pinzes and take all that poop in our stride; live and drive today !
Best regards,
Jules
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)
Eric,
Someone pointed out that my last remark might be interpreted the wrong way...
It was late on my shift (work on an oil-rig) so "Goodnight" came natural, nothing like "sleep of the ignorant" or whatever...
I still mean: live and drive hard today, it is the only time !
Jules
Someone pointed out that my last remark might be interpreted the wrong way...
It was late on my shift (work on an oil-rig) so "Goodnight" came natural, nothing like "sleep of the ignorant" or whatever...
I still mean: live and drive hard today, it is the only time !
Jules
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)